General information

How to equip the chicken coop


The issue of placing the chicken coop on the site is the same question that starts the construction of the bird house. The comfort of its feathered tenants and the complexity of the efforts to care for the house depends on the place where the chicken coop will be built. In addition, there are a number of rules and regulations, according to which household equipment should be located on the site.

Where to place the chicken coop on the site

When choosing a place to build a house, consider the following:

  1. The place where the chicken coop will be erected must be dry. There should not accumulate rain and melt water, moisture should not stagnate. Land after rains should dry out well. And, therefore, the chicken coop can not be put in the lowlands, in the grooves and at the bottom of the slopes.
  2. If the soil on the site by its nature is prone to accumulation of moisture and dries badly (swampy or clay), then everything must be done to dry it well. To do this, you can conduct the removal of moisture through trenches and ditches. And in this way the water can be redirected to those areas where it is needed, or take a little further away from the chicken coop, where you will then arrange a place for bathing birds.
  3. Welcome to the location of the chicken coop on a hill or slope. If the slope falls on the south-eastern side of the world, this will provide the hens with good illumination.
  4. The presence of drafts and strong winds in the location of the chicken coop is unacceptable. It should be built where there is already protection against such adverse conditions, in a quiet place, or independently build protection against drafts (for example, with the help of other building structures, high fence or hedge).
  5. Any chicken coop must have an open-air cage or a walking yard adjacent to it. Therefore, when building and calculating the size of the building, take into account the area where the birds will spend time outside.
  6. The yard should be well protected from drafts, accumulation of excess moisture and direct sunlight in the summer. Take care of shading the enclosure. But do not create a solid shadow, otherwise the chickens will not be enough light. It is best to create the conditions of the penumbra.
  7. Calculating the size of the site under the chicken coop, proceed from the number of livestock. Keep in mind that one or two hens should have at least 1 square meter. m, in extreme cases, at the same space there may be 2-3 clubs. But crowding is undesirable for chickens and has a bad effect on egg production.
  8. Pay attention to the proximity of the roadway to your site. The constant loud noise adversely affects the condition of chickens, which is why they can stop rushing. Keep the house away from noise sources.

Standards and requirements for the placement of outbuildings

According to the document “Planning and development of the territories of horticultural (summer) associations of citizens, buildings and structures”, the location on the site of buildings of any kind is governed by certain standards and requirements.

And although these requirements are often violated, a neighbor, who is hampered by the proximity of your chickens, may file a complaint with the relevant authorities, who will take a fine from you for violating the rules on the placement of outbuildings.

Chickens - noisy birds, roosters - scream every morning at the earliest hours, and the smell from the chicken coop even with regular cleaning can be heard even from a distance. Therefore, be prepared for the fact that the neighbors may not be completely satisfied with such a neighborhood with birds. And if during the construction of the house you violated the rules of its location, then they will have every right and opportunity to complain about you. To date, sanitary standards put forward the following requirements for the placement of the chicken coop:

  • there must be at least 4 m between the farm building for keeping birds and small livestock, and the border of the adjacent plot,
  • the distance from any treatment plant, filter trenches and roof of an economic building intended for the maintenance of birds and small livestock, to the border of the adjacent section must be at least 4 m,
  • there must be a distance of at least 12 m between an outbuilding that contains small livestock and poultry and a residential, garden house,
  • between the farm building, which contains more than 50 birds and the size of which is more than 50 square meters. m, and residential, garden house the distance should be at least 15 m,
  • from the building, which contains birds and small livestock, to any other non-residential buildings on the site should be at least 7 m
As we see, the house should be in the middle of the site. It should not be tightly adjacent to the neighbor's site, and all wastewater, ditches and roofs should be located on your own territory.

Considering the direction of the world

The laying of chickens depends on the location of the chicken coop relative to the cardinal directions. If you are planning a rectangular building, then depending on the direction of the world it should be located:

  • in length - from east to west,
  • windows - south facing
  • the door is to the east.
The windows that go to the south will provide chickens with a long light day in the winter time, which contributes to egg production in the cold season, because it is known that chickens rush only during long light days. It will also help to save on lighting in the winter, since the lamps will have to be turned on only in the evening hours of the day.

In summer, the birds will be hot with large sunshine access, so windows should be equipped with light shutters so that on particularly hot days you can create a comfortable cool temperature in the house.

The door to do on the south side is not recommended, since with this arrangement it will be difficult to heat the bird house in the winter. Winds will blow through the door and cool the room considerably. Therefore, it is best to place the doors on the east side. The location in the west is also acceptable.

What to place

The foundation is a prerequisite for the house. It performs important functions:

  • protects chickens from small predators (rats, ferrets and others) that easily pierce the floor without a foundation and attack birds,
  • helps to maintain a stable comfortable temperature in the hen house in winter, because the floor does not freeze,
  • ensures the reliability of the structure, protecting it from subsidence and heat buildup, because of which the bird house can stand for many years.

When choosing the type of foundation for the house, you can use one of three types:

  1. Tape - has the highest indicator of reliability, but differs in considerable high cost. This foundation is more rational to use for the construction of houses than the house.
  2. Pile - easy to install, with good reliability, modern devices and technologies are used, but the price is also high.
  3. Support-columnar - this type of foundation is used to build a chicken coop. It is sufficiently reliable, easy to set and requires minimal financial and time costs.

The columnar foundation has a number of advantages, because of which it is most often used for the construction of the bird house:

  • such a foundation raises the building above the ground, thus avoiding flooding the house,
  • provides the hen house with good ventilation
  • floor boards last longer because they do not rot due to accumulated moisture,
  • small rodents and predators are not able to get to the feathered prey,
  • financially beneficial as it requires minimal cash outlay
  • easy to manufacture,
  • It is laid quite quickly in time.

Such a column foundation is made quite simply, the main thing is to observe the necessary height and width for foundation thumbs.

  1. To begin with, we determine the location of the structure on the site and drive in iron rods around the perimeter. Between the rods we stretch the rope, which lies flush with the soil.
  2. Inside the markings we remove the top layer of soil to a depth of 15-20 cm (this land can not be thrown away, but used for household needs, for example, in a garden).
  3. Determine where the thumbs will be, based on the fact that the width of each of them will be about 50 cm, and between the pedestals there should be a distance of 1 m.
  4. In the marked places under the bollards, we dig holes, 60-70 cm deep and 50 cm wide (this width is due to the size of the two joined bricks).
  5. With another rope, stretched between the rods, we mark the level of 25 cm above the ground - this is a benchmark for the thumbs, the accuracy of which is determined by the hydraulic level.
  6. At the bottom of each pit we pour a layer of coarse gravel and sand 10 cm thick.
  7. We place two bricks on the bottom, which we fill with cement mortar on top. So we proceed further - every two bricks are poured with cement. The height of the pedestals should reach the marked level.
  8. When in 5-7 days the cement hardens, we fall asleep the empty space between the bricks and the surrounding ground of the pit with gravel. We also cover with gravel the whole area under the future construction.

Video: the foundation of pipes under the chicken coop

After that, you can proceed to the direct construction of the chicken coop.

Placing a chicken coop in the garden plot is a responsible matter and requires taking into account many factors: soil type, presence of slopes and hollows, submerging by groundwater, consideration of the cardinal points and even the actual distance between different buildings on your plot and the neighbor's plot. It is important not only to place the house according to all these requirements, but also to provide it with a reliable foundation that will protect chickens from cold, moisture and predators.

Ventilation in the hen house

To ensure a comfortable temperature in the hen house, the need for forced-air ventilation. Firstly, it will reduce the risks of diseases and death of chickens due to sudden temperature changes, and secondly, a well-ventilated room will significantly reduce the smell of chicken feces.

In big houses recommend installing a forced ventilation system.

Correct perch

In the chicken coop it is impossible to do without perches, since the birds not only sleep on them, but also sit on them for about half of their lives, therefore they must be comfortable and not traumatic hens (with rounded edges).

  • mount perches at a distance of cm from the floor,
  • between the perches they observe a distance of at least 30 cm, and the gap from the extreme pole to the wall is at least 25 cm,
  • the total length of perches is calculated based on the number of chickens. For one hen, 25-30 cm is considered a comfortable distance,
  • you should not install perches in several "floors"

Important! It is common for chickens to lay eggs while perching, so take care of equipping pallets with a soft bottom for eggs under the poles.

Particular attention should be paid to heating the chicken coop in winter. It is not necessary to put a wood brick oven; it is enough to hang several powerful electric lamps or an electric heater, which is placed in a wire mesh framework to comply with safety regulations.

Also an additional source of heat can be considered large windows facing the sunny side. Equip a room with a thermometer to monitor a comfortable temperature, in summer not higher than 25 ° C, in winter not lower than 12 ° C.

In too hot a place in winter, parasites or infectious diseases can appear in chickens. During the construction of the chicken coop, be careful that there are no slotted holes in the walls, ceiling, floors, windows. Draft in the cold season have a bad effect on chickens, the laying of eggs may fall sharply.

For more information about the arrangement of the chicken coop, read the link.

We advised how to position the chicken coop in the summer cottage: the window should face south, and the yard for walking should have a shadow.

It's simple enough!

In the comments you can add your photos of laying hens, rooster and chickens!
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How to build a good chicken coop, equip it and make chickens carry eggs.

Life "in your home on earth" is full of advantages. One of them is a great opportunity to build a poultry house, get chickens and forever abandon tasteless eggs from the poultry farm. We will tell you what a really good house should be from the point of view of FORUMHOUSE participants, how to build it and properly equip it.

Bird house Andreysakharov colleagues at FORUMHOUSE called "the first five-star chicken coop in Russia." At the same time, it is impossible not to admit that in his work on this magnificent building, Andrei was guided not by ambition, but by common sense, the available materials and the desire to get the best result. His experience is definitely worth exploring.

So, having moved out of town, Andreysakharov First of all, I formulated the terms of reference for the hen-coop complex, which should be:

  • Independent of heat and electricity.
  • Able to at least two weeks to work without the participation of the owner.
  • One group of chickens should supply both eggs and meat.
  • Livestock update should occur independently (periodic replacement of the rooster is possible).

Hence the requirements for the construction:

  • A simple design that allows you to assemble a building alone using only simple tools and materials.
  • Good insulation (heaters are used exclusively in extreme cold).
  • A room with a tambour for storing tools, water and feed, convenient for all the necessary work.

Thus, it was decided to build a frame house on the foundation of 4 metal piles with piping from old pipes, with a wall thickness of 150 mm, OSB-3 9 mm casing, with mineral wool insulation and additional vapor barrier inside.

Dimensions are multiples of OSB-3 2500x1250 sheet:

  • Length - 3750.
  • Width - 2500.
  • Height from floor to ceiling - 2300.

In the construction of this chicken coop, as in general, most chicken coops, used materials available from the owner of the house.

Therefore, the floor, rafters and ceiling are made of 100x100 timber, and the pillars and piping are 150x50 (the author of the house recommends dimensions 150x40). Also, Andrei, on the occasion, got plastic windows, which were also involved in this building.

In the harsh cold for the house provides additional heating with a removable electric heater. The room is equipped with bunker feeders and nipple drinkers.

The construction is carried out using the “platform” technology, the walls are assembled on the floor and installed vertically already sheathed. The material of the walls is cut in advance, it remains only to collect and install.

Mineral wool plates (the cheapest material found in a hardware store) were used as insulation material, which fit into three layers with a thickness of 150 with overlapping. The function of the windscreen outside performed only OSB.

Outside, I painted it with white exterior water-based paint and trim it with dark slats in the style of German houses.

Ventilation of the house is organized as follows: through the manhole for birds, there is a flow of clean air, and under the ceiling a grating is made between the room for the birds and the vestibule, into which dirty air flows. In turn, in the vestibule a chimney is made, equipped with a conventional fan. Another point: right at the manhole, which receives clean air, an oil heater is suspended on the brackets. Therefore, in a particularly strong minus frosty air, getting into the chicken coop, will immediately warm up with an electric appliance.

The heater for the house, selected from among the most budget, is temporarily connected using an extension cord.

The drinking bowl is assembled on nipples on clips with rubber seals, which are simply mounted in 9 mm holes.

Bunker feeder, which holds a bag of feed, made by its own project Andreysakharov. Perfectly protects from scattering of forages.

The second henhouse-bunker feeder

By the way, if the owners of chickens live outside the city and come once or twice a week, you can use the development kreylwhich has kept chickens in this mode for ten years.

A box with a lid and smooth walls on the inside is mounted above the pallet with a rack grate (it protects against scattering grain) on the wall. It can be made of fiberboard smooth side inward. In the upper part, the dimensions of the box are 1x 0.6 x 0.3 m, and it is narrowed downwards, with one side of the structure inclined and the opposite one perpendicular to the floor, and it is attached to the wall. At the bottom of the box is a 1.5 cm wide slot, into which grain is gradually poured. The distance between the pallet and the box must be such that the grain does not spill out until the chickens bite what is already on the pallet.

Good house rules

During the discussion of the stages of the construction of this poultry house at FORUMHOUSE, experienced chicken farmers and builders of our portal formulated the basic rules of a good poultry house.

  1. The shape of the room should strive to square: a smaller length of the wall leads to a decrease in heat loss.
  2. The roosts must be placed on the same level, not by a ladder, otherwise the chickens will try to take a place higher and curse the others, which will lead to swarms among the livestock and general confusion. The total length of perch on 10 chickens is more than two meters. The distance between the poles and between the poles and the wall is 35 cm. The most convenient for the hens is the angle of the ladder-to-roost — 45 degrees.
  3. The coop needs regular disinfection.

Перед вселением кур птичник обрабатывается известью, потом раз в полгода для дезинфекции.

  1. Часто отопление в хорошо утепленном курятнике не применяется. Но оптимальная для домашней птицы температура в помещении в зимнее время составляет 10-12 градусов. Какой обогреватель поставить на случай, если ударят морозы под сорок?

Для обогрева птичника куроводы FORUMHOUSE часто используют ИК- обогреватели, поскольку под такими приборами птицы могут греться, даже если воздух в помещении не прогревается. Another advantage - the IR hangs from the ceiling, and the chickens will not be able to blunt it for sure. But such a heater, judging by the reviews, is one of the most dangerous, and caution is definitely required with it.

Last year, I had a kind man cut the IR into full, like it was cold, -20. Well, I decided to check out the chickens before bedtime, otherwise I would have had baked chickens by morning - it was so hot!

IR is one of the most dangerous. The safest one is a convector or, finally, a shaker, the main thing is with a thermostat.

  1. Comfortable for 12-15 hens will be the area of ​​the coop in 6 square meters (2x3). Such an abundance of chickens will provide eggs even to a large family and even in winter (provided that they feed well).
  2. Optimally, when there are two exits from the chicken coop, and one of them is in the paddock.

You never know - to catch a chicken, to bring order there, and so on.

Separately, the door, a separate aviary, tested by practice. You used to walk around with a sack of wheat, you flattened your feet in galoshes, and those were underfoot!

  1. The coop must have a vestibule. It protects against frost, serves to store food, tools, etc., helps prevent accidental chickens from jumping out on the street, which in winter can be fraught with frostbite of the comb and legs. Usually a manhole is made into the attic into the attic where hay is stored.
  2. It is better to place the roost opposite the window and in no case be it in a draft. As for the material, in cold regions the spruce pole will be the best choice for the perch.

This is a multi-year village experience. People say that on such a roost the hens do not have frosting on their legs.

To make the pole of the roost easier to be caught by the chicken paw, it is rounded a little, the corners are removed with an ax.

This is due to the structure of the paw. From square bars broken capture "feet", obtained any distortion, rickets, etc.

  1. Under the perch, competent canals make shelves from which chicken droppings are easily cleaned with a spatula - a valuable organic fertilizer. It is convenient to place a container for chicken ash baths on the bed, in the bitter cold it is covered with hay: and even if the heater does not cope with heating the chicken coop in the cold, birds will feel great in the hay. Perches are usually made at a height of one meter, shelves - 35-40 cm.

  1. The trough should be located in the most lighted area of ​​the chicken coop.

This is not a chicken coop, but a spaceship.

  1. A 50-cm raised floor in a chicken coop protects against rats and other rodents. Also, to protect against rodents, boards are often upholstered with a fine metal mesh, and although, according to FORUMHOUSE participants' observation, “mice walk through the net in pairs and with a flag,” it protects against larger animals. In the vestibule, the floor is simply wooden, sometimes upholstered with old linoleum, and in the main part it is insulated with foam plastic, which also helps a lot in the winter cold.

In exchange for a comfortable chicken coop, laying hens usually expect elementary gratitude from birds: normal behavior and high egg production. It will definitely be, but not immediately.

Chickens - complete fools. Yesterday I watched as they tried to return from walking to the chicken coop (they also have to throw them out on the walk, they don’t go on their own). Brains are not enough to understand that you can go on trapeiku. As a result, jumped sideways in Laz.

Due to poor intelligence, chickens may not immediately understand how to climb on shelves and roost, and pile up on a bed on the floor, to experience insurmountable, at first glance, difficulties in handling nipple drinkers. To quickly fix the situation, take the rooster into the chicken family, he will quickly teach them all the tricks.

A week on an oat diet, changing diets and a round white pebble (or a ping-pong ball) in the nest will help to establish a normal egg production.