Streptokarpus - herbaceous plant long-lived rosette type with a short stem. It comes from South africa. Leaves 5 cm wide and 25 cm long look down, and along their edges are numerous sharp teeth. One or two flowers are in the axils on high peduncles (up to 25 cm). The corolla of the five blades, funnel-shaped pale purple color with bright stripes in the throat and tube.
Conditions for content
Streptokarpusy enough easy to care for and grow They can not be called capricious plants.
Did you know?Streptokarpus blooms almost continuously for six months. One has only to follow a few simple rules, which will be discussed below.
Lighting for growing
Strepsa prefer a large amount of diffused light, which means they feel best in the summer on the north side on the balcony, and in winter - on the south. They do not tolerate burning sun rays, so in the spring-summer season from 10 to 16 hours they must be protected from direct sun. Light directly affects the abundance of flowering streptokarpusa.
Therefore, if you want to observe the blooming streptokarpus as long as possible, provide him with the necessary care at home.
Humidity and room temperature
Streptocarpus do not tolerate heat (including the neighborhood with batteries and other heating devices). The air temperature should not be more than 27-30 degrees, because in this case, streptokarpus quickly falls ill and loses its protective function. However, coolness and drafts (including air conditioning) streptokarpus tolerates well. However, the temperature should not fall below 0 ° C. In general, streptokarpus easily tolerates temperature fluctuations from +5 to +25 ° C, but most of them prefer to be in a room in which from 15 to 25 degrees. In the heat, plants such as heather, thuja, hoya, brugmansia, asparagus, and muraya feel bad. Humidity should be around 50-60%. In order to always maintain it at this level, it is enough to spray the plant at night from a spray bottle and place the pot on pallets with wet sand or sphagnum moss.
Strepsy love the poor and loose substrate through which air easily penetrates. Ginger peat and soil from under coniferous plants (straight with needles) are good for them. You can choose a mixture for violets, adding to it a little of the aforementioned riding peat. However, you should not use fatty soil, because the root system simply rot in it. Try also to fertilize the soil under the plant with potash and mineral fertilizer, superphosphate, potassium humate or wood ash.
Streptokarpus: planting plants
Reproduction streptokarpus produced in three main ways, which will be discussed below.
This way quite laborious and requires accuracy, because the seeds of streptocarpus are very small. Important!It is necessary to sow the seeds that have just been collected in order for them to grow well. A plastic container with a lid is an ideal container for growing a plant. The bottom is best left untouched, and in the lid you must make a few holes for good ventilation. At the bottom of the tank you need to lay out a layer of coarse sand, perlite, vermiculite and a bit of wet substrate. Next, you should pour the seeds first on the foil or a dry sheet of paper, and then evenly distribute the soil, not falling asleep with earth. Also seeds such plants as: seeds of prickly pear, blueberry, lisianthus, clivia, mountain ash, fennel, hellebore, fittonia, cactus, dieffenbachia, laurel, zinnia. If you sow the seeds in a regular pot, cover it with a light-transmitting film with holes. After sowing the seeds do not need watering. Please note that streptocarpus that grows from seed will not necessarily look like their parents.
A freshly cut leaf stalk (or a piece of it) must be planted in an earthen substrate. To do this, take a piece of a leaf cutting 5 cm in size and process its cut with charcoal. Make a small hole in the soil and insert a cutting down into it. Next should be podgresti land to the handle so that its cut was located under the ground for one centimeter.
We water the ground and put in a plastic bag in a warm place closer to the light. If there is condensation on the package, it will be necessary to air the cutting. Children will grow up in about a month.
Division of the mother bush
This is the easiest method for reproduction of streptocarpus. In an adult plant, as it grows, tops appear that slow down the growth of maternal streptocarpus.
Such a flower should be carefully removed from the pot, shake it off the substrate and remove all flower stalks, dividing it so that each part has both a top and a root. Next, you need to sprinkle the slices with crushed coal, leave to dry for half an hour and plant in pots with a diameter of about 7 cm (the substrate should be slightly moist and porous).
Freshly planted streptocarpus should be covered with a film for a fortnight or a month, and after the expiration date, you can admire the plant that has taken root and started to bloom.
How to care for a flower at home
For successful flowering and growth of streptocarpus should properly care for him. Listed below are basic streptocarpus needs.
Water should be used that is separated a little warmer than room temperature. Ideally, watering is necessary when the ground is completely dry. This should be done in the first half of the day, but note that if it is raining outside and the humidity in the room is high, it is better to postpone watering. The key to plant health is moderate watering.
Did you know?One shrub adult streptokarpus can carry about a hundred flowers at a time. For streptokarpus useful periodic short-term drying of earthy coma, but the over-wetting of the substrate is dangerous rotting roots and the death of the plant.
In addition, if the plant will sometimes receive less water, the risk of developing fungi is reduced, because they can not exist without moisture.
Fertilizers and feeding
For proper growth and development, streptocarpus is required to feed. A good option for young plants is fertilizer with nitrogen mixed in equal amounts with phosphorus. For older adults, a solution in which phosphorus and potassium prevail (should be fertilized before flowering begins).
Important!In the rest period, streptokarpus no need to fertilize. Adult plants are usually transplanted at the end of winter, after which the first feeding follows a month later, which is done every 10-12 days.
Streptocarpus allowed to trim in any season.
This removes: old leaves, from which flower stalks were already grown, excess leaves, due to which the plant became too thick, painful leaves, flower stalks that have faded.
Young plants as they grow should be transplanted into larger pots. Adults need to be transplanted once a year in spring or summer. It is necessary to take care of that the land before the transplant was a bit wet (it should not stick to hands).
Major Diseases and Pests
Pathogens can cause yellowing, twisting, wilting of the leaves, and often completely kill the plant.
Therefore, it is important to timely identify the disease in the initial stages and begin appropriate treatment. However, if preventive measures are carried out in advance, plant diseases can be avoided.
- Mealy dew. This disease is characterized by a mealy white bloom, which is formed on young leaves, as well as peduncles and flowers. In order to prevent this disease, it is necessary to ensure good ventilation of the air in the room. Many people believe that violet flowers are mainly prone to this disease.
- Gray rot. This disease appears from the prolonged stay of the plant in dampness and cold (especially in winter). First, a sheet appears on the sheet, and then a hole forms in its place. In order to cure this ailment, you should remove the damaged areas of the sheet.
Important!It is necessary to ensure that the dead parts of the plant do not lie on the surface of the leaf, because it causes an infection. There are also many pests among which:
- Aphid. Like the rest of the houseplants, streptocarpus is affected by these pests. Aphid is a small insect of green or orange color. It reproduces on plants very quickly and thereby introduces it into a stressful state. Overflowing or, on the contrary, the arid state of the plant increases the chances of the appearance of aphids on it. It is worth knowing that the insect is able to fly to the rest of the plants in your apartment and destroy them, so it is important to get rid of it in time.
- Weevil. Insect without wings with a black body and a sharp head. It is dangerous for the plant that eats away its leaves and leaves visible traces. During the day it is almost invisible, because it is active at night. Weevil lays larvae, which later also eat plants and lead to his death.
- Thrips. Two-millimeter insect, leaving behind a pale spot on the flowers, as well as provoking the fall of pollen from the anthers. See them on the plant is difficult, but you can shake the flower on a sheet of paper, and they will become visible.
In general, streptokarpus do not require special care and easy to breed, and most importantly - will please the eye with its beauty every day.
In the wild, there are about 140 species of culture. They grow in the mountains and rainforests of Africa, Asia and Madagascar.
There are among moisture-loving streptocarpus and xerophytes, adapted to live without water. They are also annuals that grow in the forests, near water.
At home, the culture is bred for a long time, although in comparison with violets, whose relative it is, the flower does not enjoy particular popularity. However, if you dream of a beautiful perennial whose care, even a beginning gardener can carry out, then you definitely need to replenish your green collection with it.
Varieties of streptokarpus with photo and name
Streptokarpus Mozart - plant belonging to the variety dimetris. It has long stable flower stalks and large oval leafy plates of dark green color with a wavy edge. The inflorescences are large, purple hue. The upper petals of the flower are smooth and the lower ones have a textured mesh. The middle of the flower is yellow. The socket is average. Flowering time lasts from the beginning of spring to the end of autumn.
Streptokarpus Black Swan - the flower has a neat, small rosette and oval, with a pronounced venation, green leafy plates. The plant has not high, sturdy flower stalks. The inflorescences are large, velvet, dark purple with ruched petals. Streptokarpus blooms from early spring to late fall.
Streptokarpus Eternity - The plant has a neat rosette and oval, long, large dark green leaves. Inflorescences of a reddish-terracotta shade with a dark edge of densely terry petals.
Streptokarpus Fifa - has a compact outlet and thin, long stalks. Leaf plates are dark green, oval, large. The inflorescences are large, fringed, with pinkish raspberry upper and netted raspberry white lower petals. Flowers have a light aroma and do not fall for a long time.
Streptokarpus Dimetris - culture, a variety of which has more than twenty varieties with different colors. The leaf plates of the plant are large, oval-shaped, dark green. The socket at streptokarpus average. The inflorescences are large, of different shades from snow white to almost black. There are two-colored varieties.
Streptokarpus Pink Dreams
The outlet of the plant is small, compact, stalks are long, thin. The sheet plates have an elliptical shape and a dark green tint. Inflorescences of soft pink color with corrugated edges. The lower petals are decorated with crimson mesh.
Streptokarpus Shayk - culture has medium terry, inflorescences of maroon color with slight white specks and divorces. Peduncles long, thin. Each with 1-3 flowers. The socket is neat. Leaf plates are short, soft, wide. Flowering time of streptocarpus lasts from spring to autumn.
Streptokarpus Crystal Lace - the socket at the flower is compact, the leaf plates are green, hard, drooping. Inflorescences are large with corrugated edges of a blue shade. The upper petals are blue, the lower ones are decorated with a thin lilac-blue mesh on a yellow background.
Streptokarpus Frosty Patterns - The plant has flower stalks of medium length, on which are located a pair of flowers with wavy petals of purple hue and a white-purple grid. The sheet plates are quilted, green with a wavy edge.
Streptokarpus Kata Tjuta - The culture has large, dark green oval leaves with a pointed end and long peduncles, on which there are several inflorescences with scarlet-yellow flowers. The upper petals of the flowers have a scarlet hue and corrugated edges, while the lower ones have a yellow shade with a scarlet mesh.
The leaf plates of the plant are long, elliptical, dark green. Peduncles of medium length with several lemon-colored inflorescences with frilly edges. From the middle of the flower there are blue stripes.
Streptokarpus Omut - The culture has wide, not long, rounded green leafy plates. On thin, elastic peduncles of medium length appear from two to four dark purple inflorescences with wavy, toothed petals with blue specks. Culture blooms from early spring to late fall.
Streptokarpus Stribog - the plant has not high, elastic flower stalks, a compact rosette and elliptical long leafy plates of a dark green shade. The inflorescences are large, pale yellow in color with a blue border around the edge of the wavy petals. The middle of the flower is dark with black rays emerging from it.
Streptokarpus Valor - The culture has large inflorescences of an unusual shade. The upper petals with wavy edges have white color, and the bottom yellow with purple stripes and specks. The leaves are large, long, dark green, the outlet is medium.
Streptokarpus Lolita - the flower has wide, dark green leafy plates with wavy edges and peduncles of medium length with large inflorescences. The upper wavy petals of the flower are white, and the lower ones are purple with white specks and a net. The socket is average.
The inflorescences of this variety of culture are located on the middle peduncle, coming out of a compact sheet rosette. Flowers are large, with corrugated purple-black petals with dark red and purple splashes. The middle of the flower is light, with white rays emerging from it. The leaves of streptocarpus are dark green, long with wavy edges.
Streptokarpus Meteoric Rain - The plant has small oval, glossy, dark green leaves, a compact rosette and short peduncles. Inflorescences are small with wavy edges. Upper petals are blue with cream specks, lower creamy yellow with blue edging. Plant blooms from spring to autumn.
Streptokarpus Falls - The culture has a neat rosette, elliptical, dark green leaves with corrugated edges and small peduncles. Inflorescence pale lilac. The lower petals have a white tint with lilac mesh. Inflorescences have a light, pleasant aroma and do not fall for a long time.
Streptokarpus Margarita - The plant has large, elliptical leaf plates of green shade and medium thin peduncles. The inflorescences are large, fringed ruby-red hue with a pronounced mesh on the petals.
Streptokarpus Smoke - the flower has large inflorescences with wavy edges of white-purple hue. The upper petal is pale lilac, and the lower is white with black rays. The leaf plates are long, dark green, elliptical. Peduncles average, compact socket.
The plant has drooping, long, elliptical, green leaves, short peduncle and compact rosette. Two-colored inflorescences with corrugated petals. The upper petals are pink, the lower caramel-cream with purple stripes.
Streptokarpus Kalahari - The culture has large, red-yellow flowers. The upper petals are dark crimson, and the lower yellow with crimson stripes and light reticulation. Peduncles short, leafy plates wide, dark green, long.
Streptokarpus Gina - the flower has large, wide, long green leafy plates and short peduncles. Inflorescences average with wavy petals. The upper petals are white, and the lower yellow with a purple grid and stripes.
Streptokarpus Wat Mandarinka - The plant has long, drooping, dark green leaves and low peduncles, which bloom in several large inflorescences. The upper petals are white with a slight pinkish tinge, and the lower ones are white with a salmon net.
Streptokarpus Hot Chocolate - culture has large, elliptical, glossy leaf plates and medium, thin peduncles. The inflorescences are small, the color of dark chocolate with a reddish tint with white stripes in the middle. Streptokarpus blooms of this variety from spring to mid-autumn.
Types of Streptocarpus
This amazing abundantly flowering plant is divided into three types.
- Univalent - these cultures have only one leaf plate, which will grow to a meter in length and up to 60 centimeters in width. In the process of growth, two more leaves appear, but they remain in an embryonic state and do not grow.
- Rosettes - this type can be found in florists most often. These plants have beautiful, large inflorescences that are located on long or short peduncles growing from one outlet.
- Stem - for these varieties is characterized by abundant flowering, but the inflorescences are very small.
In room conditions often rosette cultures. They do not need a large area, as they feel great on the windowsill.
Streptokarpus care and cultivation at home
Streptokarpus light-loving culture. To create a comfortable environment suitable as sunlight and fitolampa. The plant is best placed on the western or eastern windowsill.
It is better not to put streptokarpus on the south window, as it will overheat greatly. To avoid this, it should be pritenyat light fabric. In winter, on the contrary, the plant should be placed in a well-lit place without shade, prolonging daylight with the help of fitolamps.
Culture grows well and develops at room temperature. In summer, the temperature regime should not exceed 25 degrees, and in winter, the thermometer should be maintained at a level not lower than 14 degrees.
It is necessary to take into account the fact that the heat affects streptokarpus badly and can harm him. Therefore, in the summer months, the culture must be kept in a cool, ventilated room. The ideal option would be a balcony.
Humidity in the room should not exceed 70%. If it is lower, install a humidifier. In order for a relative of the violet to grow and develop well, it must be sprayed several times a week.
Violet is also a member of the Gesneriaceae family. Cultivated with care at home without much hassle, if you follow the rules of farming. All the necessary recommendations for growing this plant can be found in this article.
Hard water is not suitable for watering the plant, so a few days before watering should be defended or boiled. It is necessary to introduce moisture only along the edge of the pot. When overmoistening, the root system of the culture may rot. Since hybrid varieties of streptocarpus have few leaves, they evaporate moisture in a small amount.
You can also use watering wick way, for this wick is passed through the soil and the drain hole and is lowered into the container with water. The pot should be above the container with moisture.
In winter, the plant should be watered moderately, and in spring and summer, it is necessary to moisten the soil as it dries.
Soil for streptokarpus
The soil for growing a plant should have good breathability. Streptokarpus will be better to grow and develop in the porous earth of a mixture that is well permeable to moisture. Store substrate with peat moss for Saintpaulia is suitable for these beautiful colors.
Also, the earth mixture can be prepared independently. For this purpose it is necessary to take deciduous soil, high peat, small pieces of bark and sand.
You can make the soil from a mixture of equal parts of vermiculite, peat and perlite or hardwood soil, crushed sphagnum, peat and vermiculite.
Young streptokarpusy grow rapidly and require transplantation annually, while adult bushes should be replanted every two years. Transplantation is carried out in a pot more than the previous one by 4 centimeters in diameter, by transshiping the earth into a coma and filling the free space with prepared soil.
After transplantation, the plant is watered and carefully tended until it takes root. Acclimatization in a new pot takes about a month.
Since streptokarpus has large surface roots that quickly fill the planting capacity, small pots are not suitable for it. Plant it in a low, wide plastic pot.
Clay containers are not suitable, as during transplantation, the root system may be damaged. To avoid stagnation of water, you should choose a pot with drainage holes and lay a layer of expanded clay at the bottom of it when transplanting at its bottom.
Fertilizer for streptokarpusov
It is necessary to feed the plant carefully, even though it tolerates top dressing well and often requires it.
To avoid overfeeding the culture, it is necessary to dilute the fertilizer by half the dose indicated on the package. Top dressing should be acquired from the category of those used for flowering plants.
Fertilizer need to be once a week, along with watering. Due to this mode, streptocarpus will increase leaf mass and bloom profusely.
The inflorescences of streptocarpus have bell-shaped forms and various colors. They can be white, pink, speckled, purple, dark and two-colored.
Flowers are small, medium and large terry. Culture blooms from early spring to late fall.
Care for streptocarpus during dormancy
In winter, streptocarpus has a period of rest, so it should provide special care. During hibernation, the plant should be watered to a minimum in order to prevent over-filling. Usually enough abundant moisture once every ten days.
If the soil does not have time to dry, then water the plant will be necessary less often. The temperature in the room with the plant should not fall below 14 and not rise above 17 degrees. It is also not necessary to add fertilizing, otherwise they will remove the culture from anabiosis and it will not be able to rest.
Also in winter, we should not forget that the plant must be illuminated with a phytolamp so that the light day is at least 12 hours. With the onset of spring should move to a standard scheme for the care of streptocarpus.
Reproduction streptokarpus bush division
This method can be used with an adult plant. Carry out the separation of the bush during transplantation. To separate a part of the culture, it is taken out of the pot, the root system is cleaned from the ground and the shrub is carefully divided so as not to damage the roots.
Then the divided bushes are planted in new pots, sprinkling root collar as it was buried before transplanting. To get streptokarpus faster, after transplanting pots with plants covered with sachets and leave in such a greenhouse for about a week, daily airing delenki.
After a few months, the young plants will begin to bloom.
Streptocarpus leaf reproduction
This method is the easiest, so flower growers resort to it most often. In order to obtain a new plant, a leaf with a petiole is cut from the parent culture and placed in water until the roots appear. After they appear, the sheet is put in wet soil and covered with its package, for creation of greenhouse conditions.
Parts of the leaf plate are also rooted. To do this, the sheet is cut across, dried cuts and processed with crushed coal. Then it is planted in moist soil at an angle of 45 degrees. Then the leaf is covered with a film to create greenhouse conditions.
Reproduction of streptocarpus with a piece of leaf
This technique consists in cutting the sheet plate along the veinlets. The resulting sheet fragments are dried at the cut points and treated with crushed coal.
Then they are planted cut down into the ground with a depth of 0.5 cm. With proper care after two months, fragments of leaves overgrown with children, which can be deposited after four months.
Streptocarpus seed at home
This technique is used only by experienced gardeners, as beginners, using this method are unlikely to be able to propagate the culture. It should be noted that when breeding seeds varietal characteristics are lost.
To perform reproduction, the florist needs to wait for the streptocarpus to blossom and the seeds to ripen, which need to be picked and dried together with the seed bolls.
To germinate the seeds, take a low container, pour a layer of expanded clay onto the bottom, and pour the soil for streptocarpus from above. Then the seeds are scattered over the surface of the earth and sprayed from a spray bottle, then covered with a bag and germinated in a warm place.
After the entrances appear, the greenhouse is constantly aired so that condensate does not fall on the shoots. They take shelter after ten days.
Further, watering the seedlings is carried out from a spray bottle, providing it with good lighting and a temperature not lower than 22 degrees. When the young growth will get stronger, it is seated on separate cups and looked after as adult plants. They bloom ten months later.
Diseases and pests
Most often, streptokarpus is exposed to diseases that are associated with waterlogging and virus infection. If from powdery mildew or gray rot can be disposed of by transplantation and treatment with the drug "Fitoverm", then late blight and mozayki leaves, only by destroying the plant.
From pests, the crop can cause damage shchitovki, thrips, aphid and spider mite, they settle on peduncles and leaves, feeding on their juice and destroying the flower. To eliminate these insects, it is possible by treating streptocarpus with Actellic, spreading it out according to the package instructions.
To avoid all the above troubles succeed only with proper care of the flower.
Problems growing streptokarpus
Sometimes the florist involved in the cultivation of streptokarpusov, the following problems:
- Drying of leaves - this symptom is evidence of improper temperature conditions. The plant is too hot and it begins to dry. Having adjusted a microclimate, the problem can be eliminated.
- Drying the tips of the leaves - the ends of the sheet plates begin to dry out with insufficient air humidity. To return them to a normal view, will help frequent spraying or placement in a room with a humidifier culture.
- Yellowing leaves - This problem occurs due to insufficient feeding. To eliminate it, streptokarpus needs to be fertilized once a week with top dressing for flowering plants.
- Wilting leaves - leaves begin to fade because of the long break between watering. By adjusting the watering mode, you can get rid of the problem.
- No growth - the plant ceases to grow due to the lack of dressings, improper soil or a small pot. If we exclude all of the above factors, then it will actively grow over time.
- The plant does not bloom - Streptokarpus will not bloom because of the close pot, improper care and lack of light. By eliminating their mistakes, the florist will be able to enjoy the lush flowering of his green pet.
If you can not grow violets, but plants of this type very much like - streptokarpusy in this case is just perfect.
Just take care of them, and if you follow all the necessary rules regarding their cultivation, they will delight you with their bright and large flowers for many years.
Streptocarpus royal (Streptocarpus rexii)
The progenitor of room streptokarpus is a species introduced to Europe at the beginning of the XIX century. Called it or Streptokarpus Rex. It has long, up to 25 cm, pubescent leaves and bright purple flowers with purple stripes and strokes inside the throat. Breeders did not miss the opportunity to work with such amazing natural material and created a whole range of forms under the general name Streptocarpus hybrid. The first recognized cultivar "Constant Nymph" was distinguished by bright blue flowers with a violet shade of a very large size - about 7 cm in diameter at the point of the limb of the petals.
And finally, we will present to you several spectacular hybrid varieties of streptokarpus, the breeding of which, as you already understood, will not make it difficult for you:
- - Fashion State - simple large flowers, two upper petals of white color, three lower ones - white with an ink-colored net, in the throat area condensing into an even purple tone,
- - Salmon Sunset - simple flowers of medium size of salmon color, lower part of the throat yellow with burgundy maple leaf-shaped pattern,
- - Blueberry Butterfly - medium-sized blue flowers with purple rays on the three lower leaves,
- - Texas Hot Chile - compact slow-growing variety with very bright red flowers and a yellow eye.
Popular varieties of streptokarpus and photo selection
You can create a real riot of colors in your home greenhouse with the help of popular varieties of streptocarpus.
Successful are the varieties of the series “Bristol’s”, characterized by particularly long flowering. Even relatively young children are blooming well. For example, Bristol’s Petticoats has large white flowers with a wavy edge and a pink mesh over the entire surface of the corolla.
- Bristol’s Pajama Party - fantasy pink with a white stripe - not flowers, but gramophones.
- "Salmon Sunset" has smaller flowers, but blooms very plentifully. The color of the rims is delicate pink, almost salmon.
- "Blue bells" - it is beaters up to 10 cm of a beautiful blue color with a slight lilac shade.
- "Alissa" - flowers of amazing bright yellow color, large, abundant bloom.
Most varieties have a contrasting colored shed, which, given the general variety of colors, allows you to create a real paradise garden on your window sill.