General information

Climbing rose - planting and care, photos and trimming schemes, shelter for the winter


Curly roses are divided into 2 groups - roses climber (climber) and rambler roses (rambler). Roses сlimber can bloom once - and again. They reach up to 3.5 m tall.

But rambler blooms only once, and their advantage is that they reach more than 5 m in height. These are the real "creepers" among climbing roses, with powerful shoots.

In addition, they bloom longer and more abundant flowers. Blooming ramblers lasts about 40 days.

To tell you about the merits of ramblers, I will tell you about the most interesting, in my opinion, varieties.

Curly Rose Bobby James. The bush during the flowering period is magnificently covered with creamy white flowers, which are collected in a large inflorescence. The aroma of this curly rose is very intense, reminiscent of wild roses.

The bush grows heavily, in the period of flowering has a weeping form from the isobilia of flowers. About 5 m high.

Curly rose Flammentanz. Flowers terry, fiery scarlet. Differs in rapid growth, up to 5 m. The leaves of this climbing rose are thick. Frost-resistant grade.

The shoots of climbing roses require direction determination. To they bloom not only on the top shoots, you need to tie sprouts diagonally or horizontally.

The more shoots will be located in a horizontal position, the more side shoots and flowers will be. If the bush is large enough, you must certainly change the old shoots of roses to young.

There are several basic conditions for climbing roses. For the rose bush to be strong, it needs to grow freely upwards. Since climbing roses have no special organs that would hold it on supports, it is necessary to firmly fix the shoots on the support (gazebo, arch, pergola).

A huge role for lush flowering is played by proper planting of climbing roses. To this end, it is recommended to choose the southwest or southeast direction on the site.

It is difficult to give recommendations on the planting of climbing roses, because the need for space in different varieties is different, depending on the shape and intensity of growth. Both the climate and the composition of the soil affect the growth of climbing roses.

In addition, each person has different tasks: completely close the wall of the house, fence or gazebo with a chic flowering canvas or leave the space between the bushes.

Climbing roses in the garden: planting and care with all the tricks + secrets of pruning

If you dream of original transformations on the site, be sure to breed climbing roses: the care will not cause difficulties. The lush blooming of these roses, which are also called braiding or climbing, and their successful combination with other plants will delight even an avid gardener.

Video: which varieties of climbing roses to choose for vertical garden landscaping

These flowers are the leaders of vertical gardening. There are many interesting ideas. They help to arrange all sorts of arches, columns, pyramids, garlands. The “living” wall along buildings, arbors, balconies will delight you with magnificent flowering and coolness. Very unusual look decorative compositions of several varieties.

Climbing rose formed by tall bush

All landing tricks

The main rule of the gardener who wants to get gorgeous curly roses: care begins with proper planting. Get ready for it in advance.

Choosing the best place for a rose

These plants are passionate like light and moderate breeze. Lack of sunlight inhibits the ripening of fresh stalks that bloom next season. But do not plant the bushes in place, sun-drenched all day - the stalks will burn, and the petals will burn out. Shadow at least a few hours a day is needed, then the flowering will be long. The corners of buildings are absolutely not suitable - drafts of naughty roses do not tolerate well. Best of all, if the sun warms in the first half of the day - the dew will evaporate quickly and powdery mildew will not be scary.

Climbing Roses Arch

Determine the landing time

If you do this in the fall, fragile beauties will not get stronger by the winter and may not survive the frost. Arrange the acquired bushes to a new place in May-June - they will develop perfectly and will have time to prepare for the cold weather.

Observe the optimal distance

When planted in a row, the distance between the bushes is half a meter - a meter, and between rows one or two meters. From the support near the wall and the gazebo, retreat 35-50 centimeters.

Landing depth is also important. Cover the root neck with a layer of earth about 10 centimeters.

Properly make a pit for planting

Dig up the soil, if possible, for several weeks and add peat, lime and humus. The size of the pits for plants - 50 × 50 centimeters. Before planting, mix the ground with cow dung and pour it into a prepared place. Another option - water diluted composition of one part of the manure and two parts of clay. On 10 liters of this solution put an additional three tablets of phosphorus bacterium. For acidic soil, add dolomite flour to the mixture. Do not forget to thoroughly water the planted flowers.

Basic rules for planting roses

Preparing a bush for planting

Cut the shoots and roots to a length of 20-30 centimeters. This trick will allow you to form a powerful root system. In order for the roses to recover from the microtrauma more quickly, and the infection did not get close, cover the fresh sections with garden pitch, and powder the ashes on the roots.

Care of the planted bush

Manure is considered the best fertilizer. You can replace it with any organic fertilizer. Mineral fertilizers can be alternated with organic or used together. Only during the period of intensive growth, before flowering, spend at least five feeds. When the plant blooms, do not feed any more with manure or analogues

Need infrequent and moderate watering

Roses tolerate drought and do not like excess moisture. Water them once a week. A lot of water is not required, waterlogging will result in a poor appearance and risk of disease.

Climbing roses along the path formed by bushes

Disease protection needed

The most frequent diseases are powdery mildew and bark cancer.

The first disease is active in hot, humid weather. White spots appear on the leaves, which increase over time. Favorite ceases to grow and bloom, and may later die. Treat it with Bordeaux liquid, spray twice a period.

Climbing rose on the wall of the house

Cancer of the cortex is found most often in the spring when the winter shelter is removed. Bark of shoots dazzles with bright brown small specks. If you do not notice them immediately, they will grow, turn black and tightly take to the ring the whole shoot. The only measure of salvation is the removal of the sore part with a small healthy grip. Cut material only burn! Favorable environment for this fungus - moisture and darkness. Therefore, as a preventive measure, you can advise timely shelter and its removal, as well as the abolition of fertilizing with nitrogen in the fall. It is better to replace the feed potash fertilizers.

Decorating the wall with rose

Pest Control

The most common are spider mites and aphids. Inspect the bush - if there are not very many pests, try to save the pet with herbs.

Climbing or climbing roses: planting and care

Boil nettle or horsetail for 20 minutes. Cool the broth to room temperature and spray all the leaves and flowers. Do not be afraid to overdo it - the method is absolutely safe for a rose and will not harm it. If double application of this measure did not help or almost the whole bush was affected, resort to insecticides.

How to protect climbing roses from frost

Pre-cut the tops of undigested shoots and tie the branches. For now, leave them on the pole. As soon as the thermometer dropped to -5 degrees, the roses should be covered. You shouldn’t do this before: they will not have time to become hardened and, during a long period of shelter, they will vanish from lack of air and will germinate.

Clematis rose adorn the fence

Perform work in dry windless weather. Carefully remove the shoots from the supports and lay on the spruce branches or dry leaves. Putting the stems on bare ground is impossible! The first layer of reliable shelter consists of natural materials: leaves, grass, and spruce branches. Then wrap the pet in plastic wrap or other waterproof material. Remember that an air gap is needed between the roses and the shelter.

Shelter must be removed on time. Do not leave your pet in the shell in the spring for a long time: without fresh air in a humid environment, they will suffocate and fall ill. Place the legs on the support after removing the shelter correctly: do not fasten them vertically, but horizontally or in a spiral, obliquely. In this case, the fresh forces of roses will direct the formation of flowers.

Pruning roses and secrets of their breeding

True care is not possible without pruning. In the spring, save your favorite from the weak and frozen branches - this also saves them from diseases. In summer, remove faded shoots — thanks to this measure, the bush will rejuvenate and begin to form replacement shoots.

With proper care, the rose will delight royal beauty

Propagated by cuttings and layering. The second method is used in the spring. Selected shoots are pressed to the ground, securely fixed and covered with soil part of the trunk. Watering flowers, do not skip this place. The next spring, cut the grown baby from the mother plant. You got a beautiful rooted copy!

Take propagation cuttings from the middle of the shoots with at least four buds. Cut material only from faded plants. Plant cuttings in well-fertilized soil in the shade. Loosening and regular watering will ensure the normal development of the seedling.

Red rose on pergola

Treatments for wonderful flowers are clear and simple, dissolve climbing roses, and the garden will amaze you with its pomp and refinement.

see also

Climbing rose, landing and care for it is quite a laborious matter. Climbing roses are beautiful plants that can be planted in any place where there is support. They can decorate the patio, gazebo, wicket, hide the fence. Climbing roses look great on a single support and on the arch. If the garden has a long alley, then they can be decorated with arches of climbing roses. Blooming roses on the arches are a fantastic sight.

Climbing roses come with small flowers, collected in large brushes. Grow curly roses with large flowers. They can be terry and semi-double. In addition, climbing roses come with very flexible shoots, from which you can create fancy shapes. From this, their decorativeness becomes even stronger.

The subtleties of care for climbing roses from the first year of planting

Flowers appear in such a rose bush on the shoots of last year.

Curly roses with large flowers have tougher shoots than the rose bush with small tassels of flowers. Flowers appear in such a bush of roses on the shoots of the current year. There are many varieties of climbing roses.

Climbing roses of the Rambler group with small flowers have creeping shoots that require support. A shrub rose group of Rambler with double-colored or simple flowers of 2.5 cm. It has a slight pleasant smell. Flowers pink, white, purple flowers. The leaves of this type of roses are also small, shiny. Climbing roses grow quickly. The height reaches 5 m. They bloom once a season from June to August, but bloom lasts up to 50 days. Flowers are formed on the shoots of last year. Rambler Albertine climbing roses variety - pink flowers grow to 4.5 m. Rambler variety Alberic Barbier rose bush blooms with small white flowers, whip height up to 6 m.

Climbing roses are quite unpretentious plants. So that they bloom profusely, care is required.

Planting Climbing Roses

The first step is to choose a place for roses. Climbing rose will grow well in a sunny, sheltered place. It is best to plant a climbing rose in a new place where roses did not grow. This is due to the fact that the soil can be infected with diseases or pests of roses, which adversely affect young bushes. The distance between the bushes is at least 50 cm.

Selection of seedlings

When choosing roses for planting purchase seedlings at the age of 2-3 years. It is best to buy plants with closed roots in peat pots. This will allow to plant a rose without any complications. It will grow well in a new place. If the roots are open, then they should be well developed, the bush has 3 shoots.

Pruning roses

In the following years in spring, new shoots of a small-flowered climbing rose cut little. Usually pruning roses are pruned after flowering. Cut the escape completely to grow new shoots of replacement. Next year they will bloom flowers. Usually on the bush leave about 5 shoots. If there are few shoots of replacement, or they are weak, they leave old shoots. Pruning roses are pruned, leaving 2-3 shoots, which shorten up to 3 buds.

Climbing roses need to be watered periodically in order to form strong shoots, and roses bloom well.

How to choose a climbing rose

Selecting climbing roses for your garden, it is important not only to determine the place of future planting, but also to find a suitable variety. Roses differ in many ways:

  • The size of the bush,
  • The shape, size and color of the flowers,
  • Duration of flowering
  • Winter hardiness
  • Disease resistance.

Many gardeners consider winter hardiness and resistance to disease to be the main criteria for choosing varieties of roses. Large bushes of climbing roses with 3-4 meter spiny shoots are very difficult to securely cover for the winter. Where winters are harsh and have little snow, the choice is limited only to those varieties that are guaranteed to survive the cold. In this case, global pruning will not save - the beauty and abundant flowering of a climbing rose directly depends on how long her shoots wintered.

Disease resistance is also an important criterion for choosing a rose. Processing a large plant with chemicals is not the easiest. A regular spraying of fungicides and insecticides on a plant that surrounds a gazebo or veranda can adversely affect the health of people resting in such a place.

As for the shape and color of the flower, the choice here is so large that it is not difficult to find seedlings of climbing roses for the most fastidious taste.

The flowering periods of most modern varieties are very large, many of them bloom from early summer to the very cold. In some, the flower lasts a long time, flowering comes in waves. For others, the petals quickly fall off, but all the time new buds are blooming. Vintage varieties of roses bloom only once, in May or June, they are selected and combined with specific timing of flowering.

What support is needed for a climbing rose?

As a support for climbing roses, an arch, gazebo or wall of a building is traditionally used. You can install a special lattice or column. What to consider when choosing a support?

First, you need to take into account the length of the shoots. There are climbing roses that can cover the wall of the building up to 3 floors. True, such beauty can be seen only in countries with a warm and mild climate. Most of our known varieties have a maximum length of shoots of about 2-3.5 meters.

Secondly, the support must withstand the weight of the plant itself and be resistant to gusts of strong wind.

Thirdly, the type of support depends on the thickness and flexibility of the shoots. There are varieties of climbing roses with long but thin and flexible shoots that are easy to shape. They can easily be bent and guided as required by braiding a gazebo, grill or fence. In many popular varieties of climbing roses, the main shoots are thick and powerful, about 1.5 cm in diameter. At first they grow vertically and then bend in an arc under the weight of leaves and flowers. Such shoots are almost impossible to lay for wintering on the ground; it is most convenient to form a bush in the form of an arch or along a vertical wall, and for a trellis or arbor, branches should be bent gradually as they grow.

Choosing a place

One of the main factors for the successful cultivation of climbing roses is the right choice of planting place. Light and air bush should receive enough given its maximum size. You may also need a place to build shelter for the winter.

Roses do not like to grow in swampy soil and in dry sand. If the groundwater is high or there is often stagnation of rainwater, then you need to pour a hill or form a slope.

It is not necessary to plant a rose where rose bushes have been growing for many years.

How to plant

Approximate depth of the landing pit - 60-70 centimeters. In a fertile and fairly loose garden soil pit can be made approximately the size of the root system. On sandy soils, the pit is dug more and filled with humus, compost, added mineral fertilizers.

In the process of sprinkling rhizomes make sure that the root neck is approximately at the level of the soil. In fact, it needs to be deepened about 10 centimeters below the surface level, but after planting, the ground in the pit always settles, the bush will fall about 6-10 cm, depending on the composition and soil looseness. The landing site is mulched with deciduous humus or peat.

The support is installed immediately upon planting, until the roots have grown and there is no risk of damage.

Terms of planting roses in Russia

Посадка плетистых роз в Подмосковье и средней полосе России проводится в конце апреля - начале мая, при температуре почвы 10-12 градусов тепла по Цельсию, но до начала распускания почек. По наблюдениям, у вьющихся роз высаженных весной, наблюдается небольшое отставание в росте от осенних саженцев в среднем на 14 дней.

Роза плетистая посадка и уход фото

Посадка плетистой розы летом рекомендована для корнесобственных (выращенных из черенка, отводка или размноженных делением куста) растений, в контейнерах с закрытой корневой системой. It is their advice to acquire beginner gardeners, but it should be borne in mind that in the first year these plants are weaker than the grafted specimens, which means they are more demanding to care, especially for winter shelter.

Planting climbing roses in the south to be held in the fall, until mid-October. After 2 weeks, the plant will be able to form new root processes. In winter, the young rhizome hardened, and with the onset of spring will develop simultaneously with the ground part and form a strong bush.

Re-planting roses in one place is not desirable

The place on which the roses had previously grown is not suitable - new flowers will develop poorly and lack minerals. In the absence of an alternative, the top soil layer to a depth of half a meter must be replaced.

The soil for planting in the spring is prepared in the fall, in other cases - a month before the planned procedure. Fertile air- and moisture-permeable loamy soils with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5 are best suited for climbing roses.

Coarse sand, humus, compost, turf and leaf earth (6: 1: 1: 1: 1) are introduced into clay soil, and clay, turf soil, humus or compost (2: 2: 1: 1) into sandy soil. Based on 1 sq.m. 1 kg of wood ash, a pound of bone meal, 100 g of superphosphate and a kilogram of chalk are also added to the earthy mixture, depending on the pH of the soil.

Planting climbing roses

Curly rose - a perennial plant with powerful roots that should be placed freely. Therefore, for one bush they dig a hole with a depth of up to 70 cm and dimensions of 60 by 60 cm. The distance between the holes should be up to 3 m.

The topsoil is laid aside, the podzol is removed. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of pebbles or small gravel, on top of 40 cm high lay out the prepared soil mixture, which is sprinkled with a deposited layer of soil.

Curly roses planting and care

Saplings with an open root system 24 hours before planting are placed in water. When planted in spring, shoots of roses are shortened by 2 buds, an average of 30 cm in length. In the autumn, pruning of the stems is not carried out; after planting, they are shortened in the spring, after the leaves bloom. The roots are cut to a living white fabric of 25 cm and sprinkled with powdered charcoal for disinfection.

Scheme trimming climbing roses before planting

For an hour, the prepared plant is dipped in a creamy talker made of clay and 1/10 of fresh manure. For better adaptation, growth regulators are added: Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Etamon, Buton, or Phosphobacterin, 3 tablets of which are pre-diluted in 0.5 of water.

The grafting site of climbing roses is deepened into the soil by 15 cm so that the plant can spread its own roots. When planting, ensure that the root system was spread out and air voids were not formed when it was filled with earth. Care for climbing roses in the summer is to carefully remove the wild rosehip with a sharp knife, leaving no hemp, unnecessary cuts and damage.

Proper planting climbing roses

After planting, the ground is tamped and watered. For watering the own-rooted climbing roses use the mixture, dissolving the Heteroauxin and Phosphobacterin tablets in 10 liters of water. Chemical preparations enhance the protective properties of the plant and activate metabolic processes. To protect the plants from drying up bush sprain and mulch. At a distance of 20 cm put a support for further garters. Curly roses, planted in the spring, for 2 weeks covered with a film for better recovery and adaptation of the roots.

Care of a climbing rose in the first year after planting is not difficult. During this period, the plants do not require feeding. It is important to water the seedlings three times a month, to loosen and mulch the soil, to tie up the bush to the support. When the stems grow to a length of 3 m - the support is removed, and the stems are treated with 3% solution of iron sulphate.

Care for a climbing rose after flowering

To give the bush the desired shape from the second year after planting in the ground proceed to pruning. Climbing rose, the care for which necessarily includes decorative trimming and shortening of shoots, is always cropped according to the general rule, regardless of the variety - the number of cut and remaining stems should be the same.

Trimming Climbing Roses

In place of old young shoots grow, among which only 3-5 of the strongest are left. As a result, the bush consists of 3-5 flowering and 4-5 young shoots.

Care for remontant varieties of roses

Roses remontant varieties thinned in early spring and after flowering. Strong formative pruning is carried out until the end of June, so that the young processes have time to mature before winter. With a later procedure, they may die.

You will find a photo and a detailed description of climbing varieties of roses in our material.

Supportless way to shelter for the winter

The bush is untied from the support. At a slight angle it is bent to the ground and covered with fir branches.

Shelter cover climbing roses for the winter

Above wrap glass fiber, which allows the plant to breathe and does not miss the water. The soil under the plant spud dry earth and mulch with fallen leaves.

Preparing a rose bush for shelter for the winter

Method of shelter on the pole

The shroud is covered with spruce branches directly on the support, wrapped with agrofibre or burlap and secured with twine.

Tying up a bush of climbing rose with a spruce rose and sacking

Experienced gardeners recommend covering several bushes at the same time. This contributes to a greater concentration of dry air between the plants and their better warming, which helps the roses to winter without losses.

Shelter cover of climbing roses on an arched support

Removing the winter shelter and spring care

In April, the shelter is removed for several hours a day, completely after the snow melts. Soil under the bushes are loosened and sprinkled with fresh compost. The plant is examined for disease and damage, if necessary, cutting off the affected area.

Plots with mold are treated with 15% copper sulfate, and the stems are tied to a support horizontally for less formation of replacement shoots. On horizontal stems, buds are formed along the entire length of the main stems, and not just on top.

Curly roses, planting and caring for which are performed according to all the rules, require mandatory garters:

  • For strapping choose plastic, silicone twine, and not wire, wrapped in paper. It eventually decays from moisture, and the metal can damage the plant,
  • The harness should fit the stem tightly, but not injure it,
  • Supports should be regularly checked, repaired or replaced if necessary.

Watch out for supports and garter

It is important to remember that poor-quality support or bad splits can break the stalks of the bush and seriously damage it.

It is not so difficult to grow an incredibly beautiful climbing rose on your site, and its fragrance and bright flowers will be noticed by neighbors and guests. If you follow the rules of planting and appropriate care, the climbing plant will delight with its gorgeous buds for many years.

Where and when is it better to plant roses

Roses love good lighting, they then grow quickly and actively bloom, so the south-western part of the garden or courtyard will be the best place for a shrub. But it is desirable that the sun did not illuminate the site all day, since during a long stay under the rays the leaves and buds may shrivel and lose their color.

You can not plant the plants on the corner of the house, where there are drafts, and in wetlands.

Saplings take root equally well:

  1. Spring landing in early May.
  2. In the autumn no later than October.

Preparation of seedlings for planting

Acquired roses with an open root system should be put on the day in the water. Before planting, remove the leaves, buds below the inoculation site, and also trim the roots and the seedling itself, leaving about 30 cm. Treat the cutoffs on the roots with a solution of copper sulfate.

How to plant a curling rose

Land for landing must first prepare:

  • 2 weeks prior to the landing, add humus, peat and, if necessary, lime,
  • dig up.

The landing pit should be dug up in size 50 * 50 cm. When planting bushes in rows between them, leave at least 1.5 m and the same distance between the rows. If braiding roses are planted at the fence or wall, you need to retreat 50 cm. The same distance should be up to the support when planting at the gazebo.

The place of grafting roses should be deepened into the soil by 10 cm.

Set the seedling in the prepared planting hole, straighten the roots and sprinkle it halfway down. Then pour the rose well and add the required amount of soil. After landing, spud or lapachnikom.

Further care for roses

Curly roses need timely care, namely:

  1. Watering. It is enough to moisten the soil under a bush once a week, pouring at least 10 liters of water, and then loosen the soil or cover with mulch.
  2. Top dressing. If manure was planted during planting, it will only be necessary to fertilize the roses next year. To do this in the spring twice feed roses with ammonium nitrate (after removing the shelter and again after 2 weeks). During the formation of buds, make complex mineral fertilizers, and before flowering - organic. When the rose has faded, again apply complex preparations, and in the fall - superphosphate and potassium salt.
  3. Pruning. In addition to sanitary pruning, in roses that bloom once a season, after flowering should be cut last year's shoots. But in varieties that differ by repeated flowering, such branches can be removed not earlier than in 3 years.
  4. Tying up. In order for the bush to have a beautiful shape, it is imperative to establish a support and in time to tie up the shoots, at the same time putting them in the necessary position.
  5. Preparing for the winter. Curly roses in the winter need extra cover. To do this, the bushes must be removed from the support and pinned to the ground.

Planting technology climbing roses

Lush flowering plants require special attention, and long lashes with large velvet flowers are no exception. Only technically adjusted planting, thorough feeding, timely pruning, protection of shrubs from pests and winter insulation guarantee a full-fledged result - abundant flowering throughout the warm season.

Optimum landing time

In the middle zone with a temperate climate, the best landing period is from the last decade of September to the beginning of October. After one or two weeks, the plants give the first roots, which have time to adapt before the onset of serious frosts. With the onset of spring, both the aboveground and root parts begin to actively develop, and by the time of flowering the bush is gaining full strength, not inferior in pomp to old plants.

When setting the planting time for climbing roses, it is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the variety: for example, “Super Dorothy” blooms rather late, despite the early planting date

If the planting is done in spring, the development of flowers will be delayed by about 15 days, and care for such a climbing rose will require more thorough. Sapling before planting in the ground must be made shorter by 2-3 buds. Beginning gardeners do things easier: they buy their own plants in containers in a nursery in containers, and put them in the ground in late spring.

Initial treatment of seedlings

It is necessary to seriously approach the treatment of seedlings before planting, otherwise their development will be inadequate. Preparation includes several manipulations:

  • soaking seedlings in water for 1 day (only the roots or the whole plant),
  • pruning shoots and roots
  • dusting the cut sites with charcoal, previously crushed,
  • root treatment with a useful mixture.

By trimming climbing roses it should be understood shortening several (3-5) strong shoots to a height of 15 cm, weaker shoots must be removed completely. Similarly, they come with the root system: fragmented or long shoots are removed, leaving a small bundle. Due to this, the development of the plant will occur more actively, and during the flowering period the rose will give numerous lush buds.

Proper preparation of seedlings is a sure guarantee that the plant will gain maximum strength and at the right moment will be covered with violent color

Cut and soaked with fertilizers, seedlings receive a kind of immunity, thanks to which they quickly grow and flourish.

One of the variants of the mineral mixture for processing: some clay, 1/10 part of mullein, phosphorobacterin (2-3 tablets per 10 l of solution). You can use heteroauxin - just enough 1 tablet.

Features of soil preparation

The ideal primer for a pink shrub is a loose, loamy, water-permeable soil containing a fertile layer. Sand and heavy clay are absolutely not suitable for growing flowers, so each of these types of soil must be diluted opposite. A little lime will make the soil crumbly and more suitable in chemical composition.

If the soil in the plot is too acidic, liming is performed:

Heavy fragrant bright-colored buds - the first sign that the soil for the plant is chosen correctly: it is well permeable to water and air

To increase fertility, humus, humus, phosphate fertilizers, and special soil bacteria (phosphorobacterin) are added to the soil. At the end of the summer, they dig it up several times, and in the spring they produce another shoveling.

Pitching device: more freedom

The volume of the planting pit should be sufficient so that the young roots of the plant do not experience a deficit of free space. The optimal depth is 60-65 cm. The pits must be located at least 1 m apart from each other, only in this case the root system will be able to develop freely. When the roses are planted, the root collar sinks into the soil by about 10-12 cm - thus, it is protected from frost in the winter (if there is additional insulation).

When arranging a planting pit, it is necessary to take into account not only its dimensions, but also its finding relative to the support: nothing should interfere with the development of the plant roots.

Roots have free, carefully falling asleep voids between them. Approximately 5 kg of peat compost or similar nutrient mixture should be applied to each well. Fill the hole with earth to the level of the ground surface, and then trample a little. Further care for whipping roses means timely fertilizing fertilizer. The first is carried out directly after landing. For irrigation, a mixture of phosphobacterin and heteroauxin is excellent, as an option - humates.

To saturate the soil with trace elements useful for the plant, it is mulched with humus, compost or humus, which is easy to prepare in the country with your own hands

If you want to create a rose garden on your site, then use not only climbing roses in it:

Garter and shrub formation

Directing young shoots, you can give the rose bush exactly the shape that was originally planned. For the formation of a larger number of buds and abundant flowering, the garter of separate lashes is necessary. Usually climbing species are used for vertical decoration, but this does not mean that all the twigs should be directed upwards: with this arrangement, the bush will be poorer, and the buds will appear only at the very top.

The way out is simple: several main branches need to be positioned horizontally, and for this they need to be tied up. Each main lash will give several side shoots growing up, and most importantly - a whole cloud of lush flowers. This principle is good for wall decoration, high mesh fences, pergolas.

Proper garter of roses ensures the development of shoots in the right direction: along a fence or arch, over the plane, around supports of various configurations

An excellent solution for the walkway - a suite of arches designed for decoration with climbing roses and clematis, which have already been planted and will soon grow.

Also popular is another way of location of the shoots - “fan”, when the side shoots freely stretch up and to the sides, without interfering with each other. For the braid of a pole or arch, a “spiral” is more suitable when the lashes are twisted around a support. At any location of the shoots do not neglect the care of climbing roses, and this applies not only to regular pruning, watering and feeding, but also preparing for frosts.

Do not forget about the aesthetic role of climbing rose bushes: their appearance can be refreshed by removing dried shoots or cutting off extra whips

Shelter for the winter and storage

Ordinary roses enough autumn hilling, climbing required full thermal insulation. There are two ways to cover the shrub for the winter: with or without removal from the support.

In the first case, the plant is completely removed from the support, remove the leaves, cut off weak sprouts and old lashes, leaving only 11-12 strong shoots. They are carefully collected in a large bundle, tied, tilted to the ground and secured in this position with the help of pegs. Lastly covered with fir paws. The base of the shrub should be sprinkled with a mixture of soil and peat, and the top should be covered with agrofibre or thick film.

Single rose bushes are harbored individually, and nearby growing trees can be warmed with a large piece of agrofibre covering several bushes at once.

The second method resembles the first, but the lashes remain tied to the support. It is used in regions with a milder climate. Побеги прикрывают все тем же лапником, а сверху герметично обворачивают пленкой. Качественный укрывной материал и правильно выполненное утепление гарантируют сохранность розового куста вплоть до весенней оттепели.

Помимо обрезки и укрытия розам нужны и другие процедуры перед зимовкой:

Только выполнив эти требования, можно надеяться на хорошее цветение.

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Чтобы плетистые розы из года в год радовали вас своей красотой, обеспечьте им полноценный уход.

Climbing roses can transform any area - thanks to them, an old fence or an ordinary-looking building can “bloom” with bright colors. Lush plants can be planted along the paths, in the front garden, it is an ideal option for vertical gardening. Climbing roses are not only beautiful, many varieties have a stunning aroma.

In general, you get a sheer pleasure if you decide to get these roses on the site. The main thing - do not ruin their erroneous actions and improper care.

The most spectacular options for vertical gardening

Let's talk about how to feed, watering, pruning climbing roses, and also how to protect these plants from the winter cold.

Dressing roses

Full care for climbing roses is impossible without their regular feeding.

  • After spring pruning, add three kilograms of rotted manure and about 25-30 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. Meter for each bush.
  • After two weeks, add 3 liters of mullein (1:10) under each bush and 10 g of potassium salt, 30-40 g of superphosphate and 10 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq. M.
  • After the first flowering, add a little compost under each bush and re-feed the roses with fertilizer (see the previous paragraph).
  • After the second flowering, add from 50 to 100 g of ash under each bush, as well as 40 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potash salt per 1 sq. M.

Proper watering climbing roses

Climbing rose does not like the abundance of water, but the lack of moisture can easily destroy it

Water the roses once every 7 days. If summer is very hot and dry, double the watering frequency. For watering one bush, use a large 10-liter bucket of warm (preferably rain) water. Try to pour it slowly, at the very root. So the water will penetrate to a sufficient depth (about 30 cm) and the risk of formation of surface roots will be reduced. The best time for watering is early morning.

The next day spend shallow (up to 5 cm) loosening the soil. This measure will ensure full air access to the roots.

When watering a climbing rose, one should adhere to the “golden mean” rule: a lack of moisture can slow down the growth of the plant, and the flowers will become very small. But the abundance of moisture is fraught with unpleasantness: the wetted rose is a good target for fungal diseases, its leaves may turn yellow due to the lack of air coming to the roots.

Closer to autumn, reduce watering: spend it once 10-12 days. In October, watering climbing roses is no longer necessary.

Climbing Climbing Roses

Pruning is carried out in order to form a crown, to obtain abundant and very long flowering and maintain climbing roses in a healthy state.

In order not to damage the roses, use a sharpened tool for trimming.

Pruning different varieties of climbing roses has its own nuances. We will talk about the general rules of pruning.

  1. Cut with a well-sharpened tool.
  2. Cut the shoots at a distance of about 5 mm above the bud, tilted. Remember that the long "stump" that you left when pruning can turn into a hotbed of infection for the entire bush. Cut the shoots gently so as not to damage the kidney.
  3. Shorten dry, frozen stems to a healthy tissue. Focus on the white core.
  4. Dead, diseased or just weak, undeveloped shoots to remove to the ground, and then burn.

It is very important to observe the time for pruning roses and to know for what purpose it is produced.

The degree of pruning roses happens:

  • Strong - pruning at the level of 3-4 buds from the base of the shoot. Just planted bushes need it.
  • Moderate - pruning at the level of 5-7 buds from the base of the shoot. Applies to adult Climbing Rose Bushes.
  • Easy - pruning at the level of 8-12 buds from the base of the shoot. It is used for vigorous varieties that grow on poor sandy soils or in areas with high gas pollution.

Shelter climbing roses for the winter

Delicate varieties of climbing roses are afraid of cold weather and need shelter for the winter. If you do not take care of this - thorny beauties can not survive the winter.

But here it is important not to overdo it: rose bushes can suffer from decaying even more than frost. Let's figure out how to cover climbing roses correctly.
Before the shelter need to carry out some preparatory work.

First of all, autumn sanitary pruning of roses, removal of all leaves.

Secondly, earthing up before the onset of cold weather.

Cover the roses after steady frosts (the temperature should drop to –5-7ºС).

The most effective way is air-dry shelter. With the help of the frame and the warming material, the necessary conditions are created for the wintering of the rose: high temperature and low humidity.

1. Remove the roses from the support and cut them.

2. To protect the plant from the disease, spray it with a 3% solution of copper sulfate (at the rate of 30 g per 1 l of water).

3. Carefully tilt the roses, pre-laying under the lash a layer of lapnik, on top of a layer of lapnik also does not hurt.

4. Install the frame (it can be a special shield, or several boxes), cover it with plastic wrap, put a light lutrasil under it. Remember: there must be a distance of at least 20 cm between the roses and the film.

If this method seems too expensive and complicated, there is a simpler option. True, it does not guarantee such preservation as an air-dry shelter. Its essence consists in the following: bend the branches to the ground, put a layer of spruce branches under them. Top also cover roses with spruce branches and any non-woven material. Secure the material with bricks.

Theoretically, it is recommended to reveal roses in central Russia in the first half of March. But do not forget to take into account the weather conditions - do not rush to open the rose, if there is snow outside the window and it is still freezing at night. Warming should be removed when the soil has thawed by 15-20 centimeters.

Climbing roses require close attention and care. Beauty in this case requires sacrifice, but, you see, such “sacrifices” are fully justified. After all, a lush rose bush, richly strewn with flowers, can make your garden truly beautiful and fill it with not only wonderful aroma, but real fairy magic!

Quick reference

The following types of climbing roses are distinguished:

The climbing roses of the Rambler group long from 1.5 to 5 m wattles with sufficient flexibility, which spread along the ground or ascend, forming an arc. Stems of juicy green color are dotted with hook-shaped thorns. Small flowers with a diameter of 2 to 2.5 cm with a faint aroma are collected in inflorescences. Flowering time is in the first half of summer. Within a month, many buds are blooming. The shoots that successfully survive the wintering are completely covered with flowers. The leathery shiny leaves small size. The main group of varieties related to this species sustains the winter under cover.

Climber climbing shoots have a length of up to 4 meters. Small inflorescences form copiously flowering and fairly large flowers with a diameter of 4 cm. The main varieties of this type of roses bloom again. They are able to tolerate winter conditions.

Climbing varieties are large (up to 11 cm) single or combined in not great inflorescences flowers. We have these large-flowered varieties suitable for cultivation only in the southern regions, where there is no harsh winters. In the European part of Russia there is a high probability of their disease with stem cancer.

Where to plant

Planting curly roses, preferably in small groups, not mixing with other flowers. The landing site should be well lit and ventilated, so it is better to grow garden beauty on the south side of the site in a light shade. Prolonged exposure to direct sunlight adversely affects the delicate plant, the petals and leaves can dry out. It is not recommended to plant a climbing rose on the corners of objects where there are often drafts that it does not like.

It is also worth making sure that there is no high groundwater level in the selected area. The root, as it develops, can reach a depth of two meters, and a meeting with a water source will adversely affect the plant as a whole. This can be avoided if a flat boulder is placed on the bottom of a 1 m depression prepared for planting. When the powerful root of the rose reaches the stone barrier, its growth will change its direction and will continue to the sides.

If you choose the landing site correctly, the "queen" will thank you with lush bright blooms.

Landing time

The type of seedlings determines the time to transfer the soil.

Planting climbing roses in autumn (from mid-September to mid-October) is usually used for own-looking climbing roses with open roots.

Vaccinated plant in the spring (in late April and early May). Transplanting seedlings from containers can be started in spring and carried out until autumn.

Soil selection

It is necessary to carefully consider the choice of soil. Suitable loam and fertile soils with good moisture and water permeability.

When planting, it is desirable to maintain a distance of at least 35-40 cm from the object of landscaping.

A lot of space is not required for planting a climbing rose bush. Before planting a climbing rose, it is necessary to prepare a recess. Its size 50x50x100 cm will be quite enough. The distance between the pits should be from 1 to 2 meters, between the rows - 1-1.5 meters. Dry the day before planting watered and make manure in an amount of not less than half a bucket in each recess.

Each seedling before planting inspect it. Remove damaged rhizome zones. Sections are disinfected with charcoal.

When planting in the fall, the bushes are pruned by 20-30 cm. The cutting zones are treated with garden pitch.

Video "Planting climbing roses"