You can choose expensive refined tiles, the best glue mixes, quickly and efficiently lay tile on the walls, but if you do not finish the finish correctly, all the work goes down the drain.
Often, the final result depends largely on the final touches, so troweling the tiles in the bathroom with your own hands is a responsible and scrupulous stage. Thanks to skillful technology, you can create a stable design with stunningly correct geometry and impeccable appearance.
How to choose the right grout?
The purpose of the solution for filling the tile joints is clear: it protects the walls (or floor), as well as the adhesive composition from moisture and mechanical damage. The correct grouting process turns individual fragments (tile, border, decor) into a complete coating, making the bathroom walls aesthetically appealing.
There is a so-called seamless tile, which is completely missing a side chamfer. Ideally smooth edges assume dense laying, without use of seams and, respectively, trowels.
However, most often this is a collection designer tile or porcelain stoneware, which is very expensive and requires professionalism during installation, therefore, ordinary tiles are used for the lining of bathrooms in typical city apartments and country cottages.
Which grout will fall flat, last longer and will not require a quick repair? Quality material must have the following properties:
- homogeneity - does not contain clots and inclusions, so as not to create irregularities or air bubbles, provoking the destruction of the layer,
- elasticity - well-bound solution particles help to quickly and easily apply,
- strength arising at the end of the work and allowing you to care for the seams without destroying them,
- hydrophobic, repellent moisture.
And of course, the grout should match the colors of the selected tile - combined in shade or, on the contrary, create an expressive contrast, which happens much less often.
Interlocking grouting stages
It seems to many that it is very easy to grout - it is worth applying the compound to the seams, removing the excess and everything, the work is done. However, in the process of embedding, technical nuances often arise on which the final result depends. We will try to decompose the final stage on the shelves and identify the tricky and difficult moments of such a responsible process.
Step # 1 - we prepare tools and materials
Plus self-finish is that you do not need to buy expensive tools and material. Everything costs relatively cheap and is sold in building supermarkets. So, for work will be required:
- a set of rubber spatulas for applying the grout and distributing it along the seams,
- several buckets or special containers for mixing the solution,
- construction knife and paint brush for cleaning the tile joints,
- several household sponges for wet cleaning,
- protective accessories - mask and rubber gloves (for aggressive solutions).
Since the process will not last long, it is better to prepare the tools and accessories in advance.
A large amount of clean water is also needed - this is not a problem for the bathroom, if the water supply system is not blocked due to construction work. Materials will require a ready-made grout in cans or a dry mix for preparing a mortar, which is usually sold in small-volume bags.
Step # 2 - Seam and Mortar Preparation
After the glue is completely dried (the time can be different - from 8 hours to 2 days), you can prepare the work surface and dilute the dry mixture with water if you have not purchased the finished solution.
The gaps between adjacent tiles need to be completely cleaned of residual glue with a knife, and then sweep away small fragments and dust with a paint brush. The cleaner the surface to be treated, the smoother the grout will fall and the stronger it will “bond” with the edges of the tile and the wall.
Before you rub the seams on the ceramic tile, prepare a solution. We take a clean container, pour in there warm water (20-25ºС), pour the dry mix from the pack and stir it well.
If there is no special nozzle mixer on a drill, the usual wooden stick will approach. The main thing that the solution was not lumps. After preparing the mixture, proceed immediately with the application process.
Step # 3 - Applying Grout
At this stage, inexperienced home “tilers” make a small mistake: they begin to fill the joints between the tiles “to dry”. Professionals also recommend that before applying the composition moisten the seam with water for better adhesion. Water is applied with a paint brush, preferably with a round, large sponge or spray.
You can play it safe and use an antiseptic primer instead of water to prevent mold or mildew.
When applying the solution, pay attention to the movement of the spatula - they should go perpendicular to the seam. The grout should be applied quickly, but gently, slightly pressing inwards so that it fills the entire space of the seam.
You can hold the sharp end of the spatula along the line of application and once again walk cross-brush strokes.
Step 4 - dry and wet cleaning
Even with a very careful application of the compound, stains and marks remain on the edges of the tile. How to properly tile, leaving a minimum of traces? Even in the process of processing the seams, you can remove excess: after several transverse strokes, hold along with a spatula, collecting the excess solution.
Then, even before it is completely dry, you should take a dry cloth or a damp sponge and carefully wipe off the remaining solution.
However, be careful: when pressing with a sponge, a part of the grout can be squeezed out of the joint, so use only transverse movements.
Wet sponge is preferable for another reason: removing excess solution, it smoothes the seams, making them smooth and aesthetically appealing. While working, do not be distracted, because the trowel mix dries quickly, and removing it in the dried state is rather difficult.
Prepare to ensure that after the first cleaning you will have to wipe the entire tile several times with a damp cloth - traces of grouting, especially plaster, are very resistant.
The nuances of working with floor tiles
Interglacial joints on the floor are filled in the same way as on the walls, but there are several nuances that facilitate the work. For example, there is a method that allows you to quickly clean the floor with a smooth tile. Instead of the usual sponge, they take a manual construction grater with a rubber lining and wide, sweeping movements fill the seams at arm's length. The solution will go to evenly and tightly fill the voids, if you make it more liquid.
This method is not suitable if the texture of the tile is embossed, has projections or scars. The trowel compound will fill the hollows on ceramics, and this is an additional time-consuming job of cleaning.
Having processed ceramic facing, do not forget to fill with a solution the seams around sockets, pipes, sanitary equipment and towel rail fixings.
Once again about the types of grouting materials
On the shelves of building supermarkets you can find a lot of materials for filling tile joints. Domestic and foreign manufacturers offer products that are different in composition and consistency: dry mixes, ready-made solutions of medium viscosity, dense pastes. Consider the difference between fillers and which ones are better suited for self-grouting.
The basis for the most common type of dry mixes is cement - similar products can be found at each manufacturer. Some cement formulations contain sand, others are diluted with other fillers. Sand mixtures should be used if the width of the seams reaches 4 cm and above, that is, for bathrooms they are absolutely not suitable. Cement-sand mortars are used for exterior decoration of facades, garden paths, and construction work in the yard.
For grouting tile joints in bathrooms, bathrooms and kitchens used compositions of Portland cement, mixed with lime. Fine grinding of the components ensures an even, uniform layer during application. Polymer cement mortars are diluted not with water, but with a composition based on latex. There are two types of mixtures: color and light, intended to be mixed with the coloring pigment in the preparation process.
The second type of solutions is prepared on the basis of resins. Even professionals rarely get to work with epoxy material, which consists of two components and is prepared immediately before application. Thick mass should be applied quickly and very carefully. Hardening, grouting material becomes equal to the strength of ceramic tiles and serves for at least 50 years.
Epoxy mixtures are used for joints wider than 6 mm, but sometimes they are used for finishing bathrooms. Designers add gold or silver powder to the powder and get a luxurious framing for ceramic tiles.
The most resistant material is a filler made on the basis of furan resin. It is as expensive as epoxy, and has another feature - an exceptionally black color. Despite its high performance and exceptional wear resistance, furanol is rarely used.
Sometimes for the treatment of joints, difficult areas or places of junction of the tile to the sink (bath) using silicone filler - sealant. It is sold in plastic tubs and syringes and squeezed directly into the seam with a construction gun.
The sealant has elasticity, antiseptic properties, but over time it can change its shade: white or transparent material turns yellow from exposure to water and light.
The most convenient filler for beginners tilers is polyurethane grout, sold already in finished form in buckets of various sizes. It is universal, that is, suitable for sealing seams when laying both tiles and mosaics. The width of the seam can be different - from 1 mm to 5 mm.
The polyurethane composition of the mixture is easy to apply, quickly hardens and does not cause problems with further care.
What should be the optimal width of the seams?
The appearance of the tile depends not only on the color or texture, but also on the width of the seams that surround each element on all sides and affect the visual perception. The opinion that wide seams suppress tile is erroneous.
On the contrary, too narrow seams interfere with full visual perception, moreover, they are dangerous from a functional point of view: the grout hardly gets into them, therefore it is difficult to judge their integrity and tightness.
The lack of too wide seams in their weak resistance to external factors. Grout cracks, crumbles and requires constant updating. For this reason, sand is added to the cement mixtures for wide joints. The average size of the sides of the tile for the bathroom is from 10 to 33 cm, the suitable width of the seam is 3-4 mm.
How to prevent cracking?
More often than others cement grout cracks. There are several reasons for rapid destruction: the mortar consistency is too thin, an unstable wooden base, exposure to hot water, or an incorrect ratio of components. If you do not repair in time, water will regularly fall under the tile, which can cause mold.
You can sew and clean the seams, refill them with mortar, but where is the guarantee that it will be for a long time?
It is better to prevent cracking, listening to the advice of experts. It is necessary that the solution is homogeneous, medium viscosity, and the seam is well cleaned and wide enough. When self-dilution of the mixture, it is necessary that after mixing it should stand for 5-6 minutes, and then stir it again. It is not recommended to air the room during drying or to use hot water inside it.
And finally, the main advice: follow the instructions on the packaging. There you can find information on the correct application of the mortar, the width of the seams and the drying period.
What are seams and why rub them
During the laying of ceramic tiles, the craftsmen lay special crosses between the elements, which contribute to the formation of seams - the same distances between each tile. And they are needed in order to, first, the facing material in the end look neat and aesthetic. In addition, not always laying is carried out on a solid foundation, sometimes under the tile is the floor, which may be subject to shrinkage processes. And if you do not leave these short distances, the ceramic coating can simply crack under the influence of the movements of the same concrete slab under it. However, if the seams are left blank, over time they will simply become clogged with dirt, which is unlikely to contribute to a favorable impression of the floor. And in those rooms where there is moisture, mold will begin to form in the seams. And in order to avoid such problems, the seam between the tiles is filled with the help of special mixtures - grouting.
What are the grout
Before you look for information on how to properly grout the joints on the tile on the floor, you need to familiarize yourself with the types of this grout. Professionals call it a fugue. The fact is that far from each of the materials presented in the stores is suitable for a particular room. All trowels are divided into types. There are a lot of them, but it is enough for a non-professional to know only that there are cement-based fugues made on the basis of epoxy resin and combined ones that are called epoxy-cement ones.
The first belong to the category of the most simple and suitable for use only in those rooms in which the humidity is almost absent. If we take into account the fact that not to wash the floors is almost impossible, then this option can not be considered at all. That is, grouting ceramic tiles on the floor with cement pugs is undesirable.
Epoxy grout are the highest quality and suitable for any coating in any room, as they have high strength characteristics and are moisture resistant. However, they have one major drawback. They are quite expensive. In addition, they are suitable for filling seams, the width of which is not less than four millimeters, and it is quite difficult for a non-professional to work with them. Therefore, the home master is recommended to pay attention to the intermediate version, which is ideal for flooring, not only in the residential premises of apartments, but also in bathrooms and kitchens. Simply put, cement-epoxy fugue is considered to be a universal option for a house, since it can be used for rubbing up joints on a tile on the floor in almost any room.
How to select "your" grout
First you need to read what is written on the package. The manufacturer must indicate there the optimal width of the seams, in which it is rational to use one or another fugue. Accordingly, you need to know your own size. There are also universal grout. They can be used on flooring, the width of the seams of which ranges from two to twenty-two millimeters.
Then, selecting the desired composition, pay attention to its color. The palette of shades in the store is presented in a large assortment, but you still need to know some basic rules. For example, the fact that you can use contrast grout only if you are sure that your tile is perfectly laid. As a rule, the best option is to choose a tone as close as possible to the color of the tile. If the latter has a pattern of a different shade, then you can take a fugue of the same color as it.
Before you rub the seams on the tile on the floor, you must first wait a day after laying the tile. This time just can be spent on the purchase of the fugue and the necessary tools. The very process of grouting consists of several stages. These are: preparation of the base, dilution of the grouting composition (unless, of course, you have already purchased it in finished form, which, by the way, is quite expensive), applying a solution to the seams, removing excess material and final cleaning.
What you need to have a master for the grout procedure
Special equipment and tools will not be required, however, some set will still have to be prepared. Naturally, the trowel itself must be purchased directly. By the way, it can be in the form of a powder, or it can be sold and already ready for use. In principle, the second option is better in all respects, since it is much easier to wipe the seams on the tile on the floor with such a composition, if only because it already has the right consistency. It is quite difficult for the not-so-skillful master to carry out this procedure for the first time, with self-kneading, to get it the first time.
Nevertheless, such a fugue has its drawbacks. And the main one among them, besides the cost mentioned above, is that such a grout is not subject to long-term storage. That is, the remnants of an expensive mixture will most likely have to be thrown away. Так что специалисты рекомендуют начинающим мастерам все же приобретать сухие затирки. А раз такое дело, требуется иметь под рукой в таком случае еще и емкость для разведения. Также понадобится кельма, специальный шпатель (резиновый), губка поролоновая и чистая ветошь, ведро для воды, перчатки и терка абразивная.
Кафельный пол нужно старательно очистить от плиточного клея, если таковой остался, а также от грязи и пыли. It does not hurt also to walk first with a vacuum cleaner, and then with a brush at the seams. Then you need to take a sponge and moisten them abundantly with water. After that, you can proceed to the breeding grout.
How to breed fugu
First, experts recommend carefully read the instructions. Despite the fact that the procedure for the dilution of grout, in principle, the same, each manufacturer may still have its own nuances. So do not be lazy and carefully read what is written on the label. Then take three-quarters of the water from the standard indicated on the package and pour the fugu into it. Mix everything carefully. And then slowly add water until the solution reaches the desired consistency. After 10 minutes you can get to work. Grouting is necessary only with gloves, as the mixture is quite capable of eating away at the skin with prolonged contact.
Advice from the experts! Since the novice master does not yet possess the necessary skills, and the grout dries out within just a few hours, it is best not to dilute the entire mixture at once. Divide the contents of the package into two parts. And work out one first and then the other. As for the amount of water needed for mixing, it should also be divided by half.
We rub the seams of the tile on the floor
The most common is the method using a rubber spatula. Since the work will not have to be done right away throughout the whole territory, but the tiles will be literally processed by a square meter, experts recommend immediately wetting a couple of “squares” with water right before the process. In general, professionals process 2-3 square meters. m for twenty minutes. The beginning master will not be able to achieve this speed, but this is not so important. The main thing here - accuracy and careful adherence to technology. Well, the fact that you finish the job for an hour or two later does not really matter.
So, how to properly tile? Apply to the rubber spatula fugu and diagonal movements begin to fill the seams. And you do not just coat with the top, but try to press the composition as it were, so that it fills the seam completely. Surplus remove the same spatula. At the same time make sure that the filled seam on the level coincides with the level of the tile. That is, if there are any indentations or emptiness, be sure to immediately add fugu there. Since the tile on the floor should be rubbed down step by step, work in this way for about half an hour. After this, proceed to the cleaning of the grooved area.
To do this, arm a bucket of water and a sponge. Constantly wetting it and squeezing it well, run foam over the entire surface, making movements in a circle. Your goal is to remove the excess from the tile itself and the seams. If there will be stains on the tile - it's not scary. They will be removed during the final cleaning process. Now the main thing is not to leave pieces of dried fugues on ceramics. Remove it then will not be so easy. After you have processed one site, proceed to the next. And so on until all seams are wiped.
A day later, you can start the correction. It may well be that in some places the seams are not the same. That is, there are surpluses. Experts recommend that in this case take either an abrasive sponge or a grater and walk them along all the seams, holding the tool at one angle. Simply put, polish them. After that, the dry residue should be cleaned with a vacuum cleaner, and then re-start wet cleaning. That is, thoroughly wash the seams and tiles with a foam sponge, periodically changing dirty water. After drying the floor it may remain stains. Experts recommend in this case not to wash it a hundred times, but just carefully wipe it with a dry cloth. This procedure can be considered complete.
How to rub the tiles in the bathroom on the floor
In the same way as in any other room. Except that in this case, experts recommend adding another step - coating the seams with sealant. After all, the bathroom, like no other, is exposed to moisture. And quite often the seams on the floor, and on the walls in it blacken from the resulting mold. And to avoid this, buy a special compound-sealant. It is a liquid. Apply it should be three days after grouting (you need to let the fuge dry up). Take a thin brush for drawing and gently blot with the help of the composition of the seams.
Choice of grout
Sold in finished form (paste mixture), in dry or multicomponent (usually two-component). You can also choose the desired color or matte, intended for tinting. The main criterion when choosing a grout should be performance:
- mechanical load (plays a special role when grouting the floor tile seams),
- mechanical impact (abrasion resistance),
- chemical aggressiveness of the environment (pool lining, for example, where there are a lot of chemical reagents: chlorine, antibacterial chemistry, etc.),
- color retention (when exposed to ultraviolet rays),
- the width of the seams.
Grouting is divided into the following types:
Grout on the basis of cement.
- Cement based. The composition includes fillers: fine sand, various polymer additives. Diluted with water or latex immediately before use. The time of viability of the finished mixture is limited (depending on the fillers, the longest playing does not exceed 2 hours). Stitches more than 5 mm wide. It is recommended to fill the grout in the composition of which there is sand. The most affordable and easy to use. Restrictions on the use: enameled tile, if the composition contains sand (can be scratched when applied), direct contact with water, chemicals. The performance characteristics of such grout are improved by treatment with special impregnations after the composition dries,
- Epoxy grout. Two-component composition - resin and hardener. May include additional ingredients: Portland cement, sand, bronze, aluminum glitter, etc. Resistant to almost all types of external exposure (mechanical, water, chemical, ultraviolet, temperature). The cost of the material is significantly higher. A more complex process of application (the material is viscous and aggressive, requires skills and the use of protective equipment). Components are mixed before use. The duration of the finished solution does not exceed 5 - 20 minutes (depending on the component). It is recommended to use only for finishing surfaces with the corresponding operational requirements (swimming pool, Turkish bath, etc.) or for visual design solutions (for example, transparent seams with lighting),
Various sealants are not recommended for use as a grout. Over time, they shrink, may turn yellow, become covered with mold and fungus.
Tip! Attention should also be paid to the microclimatic conditions under which work will be performed. At high temperature, cement grout will dry faster, epoxy and polyurethane slower, at a low temperature, on the contrary. Greater air dryness will shorten the longevity of cement grout.
Conditions close to ideal: 18 - 22ºС at normal humidity (30 - 60%).
Calculation of material consumption
Approximately the consumption of grout can be calculated by the following formula:
Consumption (kg / m²) = (A + B) x H x D x Ratio/ (A x B)
A, B - tile proportions (width, length) in mm,
H - tile thickness (seam) in mm,
D is the averaged joint width in mm,
Coefficient - the density coefficient of the grout (1.5 - 1.8).
For convenience, you can use our calculator, it considers according to the same formula. Be sure to buy a grout 10-15% more from the calculated value.
* Density of grout:
- Ceresit CE33, CE40, CE43 - 1.75
- KERAKOLL Fugalite Eco - 1.55
- KESTO Kiilto - 1.6
- LITOKOL Litochrom - 1.9
- LITOKOL Litochrom Luxury - 1.9
- LITOKOL Starlike - 1.55
- MAPEI Ultracolor Plus - 1.6
- MAPEI Kerapoxy Design - 1.6
To prepare the seam for further processing after tile laying:
- Screwdriver, knife (or special tool). To remove the protruding surplus of the solution on which the tile lay, crosses,
- Sponge bucket with water. For wetting seams.
- Spatula It is more convenient to use different - rubber and metal,
- Drill with mixing nozzle. A small amount can be prepared by mixing in a can with a spatula,
- Smoothing seams. It can be replaced with a piece of ordinary electric cable in a PVC jacket of the required diameter (depending on the seam width and depth of the final surface),
Special spatula-shaper seams (left) and electrical cable (right). The effect of the application is the same.
For dry mixes will require an additional capacity for mixing the solution.
- Special cleaning sponge (comes complete with grout),
- Special detergent for removing stains.
For epoxy solutions:
- Capacity for mixing ingredients,
- Spatula for epoxy grout,
- Cleaning brush,
- Cellulose based sponge. A regular sponge crumbles and leaves inclusions in the seams. You can use a large number of ordinary rags, throwing them away immediately after wiping,
- Special detergent to remove stains or warm water (with proper skill).
A set of tools for applying epoxy grout.
Preliminary tile preparation
- The working surface is cleared of excess masonry mortar, dust, dirt.
- A small amount of the working solution is prepared. For the first batch, it is recommended to take a very small batch to determine the parameters of hardening, application speed, flow rate. In the case of ready-made mixtures, do not leave containers open for a long time, and if the capacity is large, then it is recommended to pour a small amount into the working container for use. The working solution is thoroughly mixed using a drill and a mixer.
- The seam is wetted with a wet sponge. After that, you can begin to gloss over the seams.
Tip! Priming before applying the grout is not necessary. At best, this is a useless procedure.
Grouting and finishing procedures
Cement-based dry mixes and finished polyurethane solutions are applied in approximately the same way:
- Using spatulas, the finished solution is rubbed into the seams. It is necessary to rub it with effort so that the solution fills up as far as possible all voids, including those which are not filled with tiled glue.
The solution is rubbed into the seams with effort.
Formation of the seam surface with a special spatula or a piece of electrical cable.
When the grout has finally dried, it is time to remove the remaining white patina and finally bring the tiled surface in order.
The intensity and amount of plaque on the tiles depends on how thoroughly the foam sponge was washed and how often the water in the bucket changed. But even if the tile needs a good cleaning, it’s not hard to do.
The best and most effective way would be clean running water from a hose - quickly, cleanly and nothing to rub. But there is not always a practical opportunity to apply this method. Therefore, more often use the "dry" method of cleaning. To do this, use a dense, better felt, cloth, which rub the surface, removing the remnants of the mixture. The problem can arise only with the cleaning of surfaces of corrugated, textured or matte tiles. And here will help special cleaners, which can usually be found in the same stores where you purchased the grout.
Types of grout
The seams in the living room and bedroom are treated with cement mixtures. They consist of a binder obtained from gypsum and clinker, colored pigments and additives, which are responsible for the rapid hardening of the paste and its plasticity. Cement-based groutings are inexpensive, have a variety of colors, but are not resistant to moisture. The compositions are rarely used for the treatment of seams in the bathroom. In the solution, which will regularly contact with various liquids and steam, instead of water, add a latex plasticizer.
The seams in rooms with a high level of humidity are overwritten with epoxy agents. The composition of the powders include hardeners and pigmented resins. Epoxy grout expensive, but they are resistant to dirt and detergents, do not absorb moisture. Mortars made from pigmented resins are thick and viscous, therefore only professionals who repeatedly fix the joints between the tiles cope with them.
Corner and deformed seams are treated with silicone sealants. They are not as durable as cement and epoxy solutions, but they have several advantages:
- masking defects facing material
- resistant to moisture
- possess antifungal properties.
Silicone sealants have a variety of colors, but over time they may turn yellow. The solutions are elastic, but with regular contact with food products become loose and gradually begin to crumble.
Seams up to 5 mm wide are rubbed with cement or epoxy mixtures. Large joints between the tiles close up the compositions, which contain sand. The additive increases the strength of grouting, but makes the surface of the joints rough. Sand solutions are only two shades: gray and white.
The composition of high-quality mixtures should include:
Components provide elasticity and durability of the paste. In the grout for the bath and kitchen should be antifungal substances.
Preparation of the solution
Beginners can buy liquid mixes in hardware stores that do not need to be diluted with water. It is enough to open the package and close the joints. But the finished formulations are expensive and stored less than dry powders for the preparation of solutions.
Usually, 250–300 ml of water is taken for 1 kg of dry mixture. Some manufacturers have different proportions. Before preparing the solution, you need to carefully study the instructions, which indicate the ratio of the workpiece and the liquid.
The grout is mixed with water in a clean bucket or basin. If old cement or other solutions remain on the container walls, they will react with the grout, its elasticity and tightness will decrease.
In a bucket pour 50–60 ml of water. Add a quarter of the grout, knead or mass with a spatula. Paste adjusted to uniformity. Gradually pour in water, then pour a new batch of powder. Ready solution insist 10-15 minutes, and then put on the prepared seams.
Liquid grout can not be stored longer than 12-24 hours. It is covered with film, becomes unsuitable. It is better to mix as much powder and water as you need by 1.5 square meters. m
Application and tamping
The seams on the wall are rubbed off after 7 days, when the tile glue finally hardens. The gaps between the tiles before work moistened with water. The liquid is applied with a thin brush. Moisture provides grip adhesion to the base.
Seams on the floor in the bathroom or kitchen cover up after a day. Apartment owners can not forget about the existence of these rooms for as much as 7 days. They regularly use the toilet, stove and sink, bring dirt and debris into the room. It gets into the seams and reduces their hygiene and tightness.
The gaps between the tiles before grouting treated with antifungal compounds. Preparations are applied after cleansing the seams from building glue and dust. Leave for a day to dry. Apply grout with a rubber trowel. Additionally, you will need:
- a bucket of warm clean water without detergent
- big sponge with a hard surface
- cable diameter of 0.5 mm less than the size of the seam.
Thick paste for grouting gaps between the plates is poured into a small tray or bowl, which is convenient to hold with one hand. The second squeezes spatula. Use a tool to scoop up some mass and apply it to the seam. Rubber grout tamped with a rubber blade, so that voids do not form between the dried mass and the wall. The smaller the portion of the paste, the easier it is to distribute it in the gap between the tiles.
Well rammed grout is elastic and dense. Beginners will realize that there are no more voids left when the spatula cannot penetrate the joint filled with paste. The tool will meet resistance.
The remains of the grout removed with a spatula, which is set perpendicular to the seam. The rubber blade moves slowly down or to the side. Excess paste is returned to the container with grout. Divorces are not washed away immediately, but after 20-30 minutes.
Seams after processing leave to dry. Paste takes 20 minutes to become plastic. While the grout is not completely hardened, they are forming and trimming the gaps between the tiles.
In a bucket of warm water they dip a clean sponge or rag and carefully squeeze it out. If a lot of liquid remains in the cloth, it will be absorbed into the grout. Moisture - the cause of bright spots on the seams. They stand out against the background of a paler grout and look ugly.
Sponge dipped in water, carried out on the gap between the tiles. The hard surface will remove the top layer of grout, because it should be 0.2–0.3 mm lower than the edge of the tile. Rags erase the remnants of pasta from the ceramic surface, until they are dried. After each treated seam, the sponge is dipped into a bucket and rinsed. The foam rubber workpiece, on which the grout remained, washes out the dried paste and leads to the deformation of the seam.
It is not necessary to embed the gaps between the tiles. The procedure is intended for the formation of flat and smooth seams without cavities and pits. Понадобится кабель длиной 15–20 см. Заготовку перед работой моют или протирают влажной ветошью, чтобы на поверхности затирки не остались грязные разводы или пятна.
Кабель слегка вдавливают пальцем в пластичную пасту и проводят до уголка плитки. Затирку, которая вылезла из шва, убирают влажной губкой. If the mass has become hilly, you need to run a cable through it a second time. The pits and cavities left after the jointing, gently close up with fresh grout. Prepare a small portion of thick mastic and put on problem areas with your fingers. Press down and leave to dry. If the grout is too much, there may be areas that differ in color from the rest.
Mastic, got out of the seams, sweep dry rags. Particles of pasta, which had time to dry, removed from the ceramic surface grater. The tool resembles a wide scraper with a rubber nozzle.
Grater moves diagonally. The wide blade is perpendicular to the seam. Putty pieces that have separated from the wall are removed from the tool by hand. It is impossible for mastic lumps to fall into the gaps between the facing material. They can damage the dried layer of grout, and will have to re-process the seams.
Important: Removing dried pasta from embossed or glossy tiles is very difficult. The remnants of the grout are recommended to remove immediately, until they have managed to harden, and to wipe the edges of the tile with a rag or toothbrush.
Ceramic surface is cleaned of mastic residues with a damp sponge or cloth. Wet removal of grout is carried out after 20-30 minutes after removing the paste with a grater. The glossy shine of the tile will be returned by special solutions, which include:
- lemon juice,
- table or apple vinegar,
- mustard powder,
One component or a cocktail of several ingredients is diluted with water. Sponge moistened in a solution and spend on the wall. If there is a stretch of grout color left on the tile surface, you need to wait another 10-15 minutes.
Sponge spend on the ceramic surface, removing the remnants of mastic. Foam rubber rinse after each tile, so that there are no stains. When the old solution gets a dirty shade, prepare a portion of the new.
After wet cleaning, carefully inspect the seams and fill the grooves left after the sponge. Wait until the grout dries, then polish the ceramic surface with a dry soft cloth to restore the tile's previous shine.
Mastic before final drying is covered with a layer of silicone sealant. Protective material must be used for the treatment of seams in the bathroom and kitchen. Translucent paste prevents the appearance of fungus. The sealant is applied with a thin brush, if you need to process only the seams. Foam roller captures and grout, and ceramic tiles.
Clean and dry veneer material is polished. Sprayed onto the surface means for glass and mirrors, and then wipe the tiles with a soft cloth until it starts to shine.
Even a novice can fill the gap between the facing material with mastic. Instructions will tell you how to prepare the grout to the correct consistency. Hands will get used to the spatula in 5-10 minutes, and after half an hour the novice will determine by eye how much paste should be put into the seam. The main thing is not to be afraid of tools and follow the recommendations so that everything works out.
How to rub the seams on the tile on the floor: expert advice
Ceramic tiles, of course, is an excellent and practical flooring. It is especially good in areas exposed to moisture, and places characterized by high traffic. That is why such floors are most popular in many offices and institutions. Our apartments are no exception. Tiles on the floor today can be found not only in bathrooms and kitchens and hallways, but sometimes even in living rooms. Benefit in the construction market, you can find an extensive range of this material, sometimes capable of simulating virtually any surface. True, this flooring will be beautiful only in the event that it turns out to be correctly and accurately put. And an important role in this procedure is played by the final stage - grouting the tiles on the floor. It is on how correctly this is done that the visual effect produced by the coating will depend.
Than rubbing the seams between the tiles on the floor, how to properly and why do you need to do it? All these questions will be answered in our review.
We tried to tell as much as possible about how to rub tiles on the floor. But at the same time they shared the secrets of experienced masters and brought recommendations of experts. We hope, now you will not have difficulties with grouting tile joints.
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The fastest way to wipe the joints on the tile: all the details of grouting ceramic tiles
Having finished laying tiles in the kitchen, you proceed to the next stage of work. This is a grout of ceramic tiles. The stage is very important, and if you know how to rub the seams on the tile correctly, you will be able to hide some styling defects. If the grout is done poorly, it will ruin even the perfect tile laying.
Modern tile laying technology provides for grouting at the final stage of work.
Before starting to grout, make sure that the tile adhesive is completely dry. Inter-tile joints should be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dirt, remove any remaining separators (crosses). Some manufacturers say that crosses can be left in the joints and covered with grout. But the masters do not advise doing this, because the layer of grout over the cross will be more subtle, which means that its color will be different, which can spoil the appearance of the seam.
If you have been working with glazed tiles, you can start grouting right away. If the tile is unglazed, the top and side of each tile must be moistened. This is done so that the unglazed surface does not absorb moisture from the grout. You can moisten the tile surface with a garden sprayer. The main thing is not to overdo it with moisture, because the pools of water remaining on the tile surface or in the seams can damage the grout and it will subsequently begin to crack. To dispel your doubts about the grouting of unglazed tiles, it is best to consult the grout manufacturers.
There are two main types of grouting materials - mixtures based on epoxy resin and cement. When choosing a trowel material for a tile, do not confuse it with sealing compounds made of elastomer, which fill the joints of building materials. For example, a sealant made of silicone. It is really used for tiles, but not for seams, but for filling voids when laying tiles on another surface. Masters are not advised to use silicone seal for inter-tile joints.
In addition to epoxy, they contain a hardener, which makes the inter-tile joints resistant to chemicals. This is a fairly expensive grout, so it is usually used for commercial and industrial premises. Working with her is not very convenient - the grout is viscous. If the width of the seams between the tiles you have is less than 6 mm, and the thickness of the tile itself is no more than 12 mm, then the epoxy-based grout will not penetrate the seams, they are very narrow for it.
This is a dry mixture that must be diluted with water or liquid latex before use. They also sell ready-made, ready-mixed cement grout, but they are more expensive. Grout on the basis of cement differ in additives, which are part of the material. Thus, there are three types of cement grout: a dry hardener, a mixture of latex and industrial cement. Important: such grouting can cause irritation and inflammation of the eyes, adversely affect the skin and lungs. Therefore, during work, use respirators, rubber gloves and goggles.
Grouting on a cement base is carefully distributed, filling all the empty space between the tiles
Using a sealant, the masters have two goals: to protect the seams and the ceramic tile itself from stains, to protect the seams from excessive absorption of moisture. So that stains do not appear on the surface of unglazed tiles, the lining is covered with a liquid transparent sealant. Most sealants are made on the basis of varnish, acrylic or silicone. When choosing a sealant, consider the type of tile and the grout you are using.
Most masters use grout “Atlas”, “Ceresite”, “Hercules”. Note that the seams should be darker than the tile background. Thus, the severity of geometry is emphasized, and the dirt, which inevitably accumulates in the seams over time, will not be so noticeable.
When rubbing the seams with white grout, be prepared for the appearance of a yellow patina on it, and it cannot always be cleaned with detergents. If the seams are wiped with dark-colored material, resort to detergents every 2-3 months. But the grout is a mixture of cement with mineral additives that will fade with time. The darker the color of your grout, the longer the color will be primordial.
Tile grouting is done with a small rubber trowel
Grouting color is an aesthetic category. It should be selected depending on the color of the tile and your artistic intent.
If you have never seen how to grout ceramic tiles, video from the Internet will help you to get an idea of the process. It includes several stages: mixing grout, keeping the solution for a certain time for better wetting, followed by repeated mixing of the grout, distribution of the solution, cleaning the joints from excess grouting.
The choice of tile grout is quite large in price, color, and quality.
Prepare everything you need to work. You will need:
- respirator (if you are planning to work with cement grout),
- rubber gloves, goggles,
- rubber roller or spatula,
- proper grout,
- bucket, clean cloth, sponge,
- plywood (in the case of tiles on the floor),
- paint roller or paint brush (small).
After the grout is diluted in the required proportion, lay a grout hill on the tile surface (if you rub the tile joints on the floor, you can simply lay the solution out of the bucket, and if you work on the wall, use a rectangular trowel). A grout grater is best for spreading grout.
The trowel should be held diagonally - so the solution will be distributed over the surface more evenly.
It should be held at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile and apply grout diagonally. Walk grater on the surface of the tile 2-3 times, but not just cover the tile with a solution for grouting, but try to rub it into the seams, press it in with force. The suture should be tightly filled with mortar. The stronger the resistance, the more the seam will be filled, which means that it will be more dense. The basic idea of tile joints is to fill all corners and voids around the tile from top to bottom. The liquid in the grouting process will leave the grout seam, so the material will harden, and the seams will be filled with particles of cement and sand.
Do not grind the entire surface at once. First, distribute the material in a small area no larger than 1-2 square meters. So you can assess how quickly the grout grabs and understand how often you have to stop working and clean the seams.
A grout bag is a very convenient and practical tool for performing a simple but important operation.
If you are working with a surface that is difficult to clean, it is recommended to use a grouting bag. It operates on the principle of pastry bag for decorating cakes. At its end fix the metal tip, whose width is approximately the same as that of the trowel. The bag is filled with grout and extruded into the seam through the tip.
When working with the bag, place the tip into the top of the seam and move it back and forth until the seam is completely filled. For effective filling, work along the entire length of the seam, and not around a separate tile. First fill the horizontal, and after the vertical seams. You should squeeze out a little more grout than you think necessary, because after the first setting you should tamp the grout into the seam with a piece of a smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is larger than the width of the seam, or the jointing. After the pressed grout grabs in the seam (this takes about half an hour), remove the excess with a stiff brush.
- Step 1: Dry Grout Removal
After you fill in all the joints with a grout, take a grater to remove excess grout. It should be held at a right angle to the tile and moved relative to the surface of the seams diagonally. If you move vertically or horizontally, the edge of the tool can ruin any joint by removing some of the grout from it. After removing all the extra grout dry, allow the seams to grab before starting a wet grout.
- Step 2: Wet Grout Removal
How much time should pass after the end of the dry grout? From laying to laying it varies greatly. Sometimes it takes 25-30 minutes, and sometimes five is enough. The rate of drying of the grout depends on the adhesive, tile, type of base. Not the last role is played by weather conditions.
Work with a wet sponge is an obligatory stage of work that will return the gloss, gloss and initial color to the tile.
The remains of the grout on the surface of the ceramic tile sometimes dry up quite quickly, while in the joints the grout remains wet for a long time. Use a very wet sponge for evaluation. With it, you can test a small area of the surface. If the grout is grabbed very quickly, the wet removal of the grout will be time consuming. The material in the seams should be tight and elastic, but not hard. If the grout from the seams pulls up behind your wet sponge, it has not grabbed enough, you have to wait a few more minutes. Start cleaning when the grout from the joints remains in place.
If too much time has passed from mashing the joints to a wet grout, you can remove the dried excess with a special abrasive trowel. It does not scratch the surface of the tile.
A wet bucket of water and a sponge will be required for wet grouting. First, with a sponge, quickly remove most of the grout. Do a soft circular motion with a sponge, gradually removing particles of sand and cement. Ensure that no grooves form in the seams. Rinse the sponge from time to time and squeeze it well.
To get the perfect result, the seams are given the same shape and depth.
Inspect the grout seams and smooth them if necessary with the help of jointing (a wooden stick with a sharpened end). It is very important to give the seams the same depth and shape.
- Step 3: final cleaning
When all joints are aligned, the tiles should be cleaned again. This is done with a sponge, which constantly needs to be washed in water and wrung well. The purpose of this cleaning is to remove all grout residues from the tile surface. After this, the seams should dry for 15 minutes.
- Step 4: applying sealant
Sealant can cover both tile and grout, when the interstitial joints are finally hardened. If you cover only the seams, use a small brush, if both the tile and the grout are a small roller.
Treatment of joints with sealant will increase their resistance to mechanical and chemical stress.
After completing the work, put a sheet of plywood on the tile and forbid the household to walk on it until the grout is completely dry. Some types of grout dry out within two weeks, so as not to spoil the seams, specify the required drying time in the manufacturer's instructions.
How to rub the seams of ceramic cladding
The success of the bathroom tiling with their own hands depends on the quality of the performance of each stage of finishing, including the tiling of tile joints. If the decoration of well-maintained gaps between perfectly laid tiles to do wrong, then the aesthetics of the final result of finishing works, even made with exclusive ceramics, will be questionable.
Затирка швов — это очень важный этап работы, без которого отделка стен и полов керамической плиткой не может считаться завершенной
Поэтому рассмотрим, как правильно выполняется затирка швов кафельной плитки, чтобы результат этой операции соответствовал техническим требованиям, предъявляемым к облицовке данного основания, и общему уровню эстетичности выполненной отделки. To do this, we will list and consider the factors that affect the quality of the grouting of joints, as well as the ways to perform this simple, but crucial, stage of finishing work on laying ceramics with your own hands:
Technologies for filling joints with mixtures:
- cement based:
- based on epoxy resins:
- from furan resins,
Technology of filling joints with mixtures
The question of how to seal the seams on the tile, can not be considered separately from what mixture to use. The success of the finishing depends on the right choice of grouting, moreover, the tool for filling the joints is selected taking into account the characteristics of the selected glue in order to gloss over the joints efficiently and quickly. Therefore, we consider the technology of filling the gaps between ceramic tiles of the floor and walls with various types of trowel mixture and the tool used for this.
Filling the joints with cement formulations
The seams between the tiles are filled with the mixture prepared using the instructions with a rubber spatula. The spatulas with the elastic part of black color (rubber) are more rigid, the white (rubber) ones are soft.
The use of grout on the basis of cement-sand mixture when filling joints of glazed tiles is undesirable, since sand will leave an abrasive mark on the glossy surface of ceramics.
In addition, these compounds are used to fill gaps with a width of more than 5 mm, and therefore unsuitable for the bathroom, where this width of joints is not used to ensure the tightness of the facing of the floor and walls.
Hardener or latex added to cement grout
It is necessary to choose the color of the trowel to the right, so that the seam, depending on the artistic design of the bathroom, contrasted effectively with the tile or, conversely, merged with its color.
Apply the grout to the floor and the walls of the bathroom should be portioned along the joint, after which the gap is perpendicular to the seam with a spatula movement and the gap is filled to the full depth. The convex surface after filling with a trowel speaks of completely filling the gap.
During grouting, periodically, every 15–20 minutes, remove excess glue with wet foam rubber or a rag. After a day, the surface lined with ceramics is wiped clean with a clean, damp cloth, allowed to dry for the tile, and then polish it with a dry flannel.
Grouting tiles with epoxy-based compounds
The trowel mix is prepared by hand according to the instructions on the packaging, strictly observing the proportions of the bulk and hardener. The quantity prepared at one time must be worked out quickly, within 5-10 minutes (the exact time of survivability is indicated on the package). Laying the mixture on an epoxy base in the seam is better to produce a homemade "syringe", which can easily be made from a dense cellophane package, cutting off one corner of it.
Epoxy grout consists of two components - epoxy composition and hardener
The prepared portion of the grout is transferred to the bag, the cut corner is inserted into the seam and, pressing on the "syringe", lead it along the junction, ensuring that the groove is completely filled.
After the package has been emptied, the excess glue from the finish is quickly cleaned with a spatula, and then residual dirt is completely removed from the tile with a cloth with solvent.
Due to its main component - furan resin, furan grouts are black in color, therefore they are mainly used for filling tile joints in industrial premises. However, the technical characteristics of this composition are high, and its black color will harmoniously fit into the cladding of the floor or walls of a cherry or saturated green bathroom.
Furan resins give trowel masses resistance even to chemically aggressive
The technology of filling seams with furan trowels with their own hands is similar to working with epoxy mixtures.
Such compositions are designed to fill the gaps between the ceramic lining and the bathroom, the sink, as well as the joints of the interfaces of the tile with the laminate on the floor.
Covering the grout with a sealant helps prevent the grout from staining and protects it from water damage.
Some varieties of these sealants, for example, silicone sealant “For aquariums”, in most cases, with the right color selection, will fully cope with the task of aesthetic, hermetic and durable filling of joints, but the use of this expensive material for an inappropriate purpose is not justified if there are a lot of trowels on sale with high performance at an affordable price.