Schlumberger or Decembrist is the name of the same plant that is successfully grown at home. It refers to the culture of the genus epiphytic cacti. In nature, the Decembrist prefers to grow in the tropical forests of southeastern Brazil. The plant reaches a height of 2.8 m. For the first time, zygokaktus was introduced to Europe in the 19th century, so that since then it has become one of the most popular domestic plants. And although it is completely easy to care for him, there are situations when you have to deal with pests and diseases. The article explains why zygocactus is sick and does not grow other major problems that may arise, as well as how to reanimate a flower at home.
Phytophthora and Pythium
These two diseases are transmitted with contaminated soil and cause damage to the original root neck. The very first symptom of the disease remains a massive fall of the segments, wilting flower with high soil moisture (about why the Decembrist has sluggish soft leaves and how to remedy the situation, read here). After that, the plant becomes gray or pale in color. For treatment use the following drugs:
- Fast To 1 liter of water 1 ml of the drug. The consumption of the solution is 0.5 liters per plant.
- Topaz. For spraying the plants take 2 ml of the drug in 10 liters of water. Treatment is carried out at the first sign of the disease.
- Maksim. Dilute 5 drops of the drug in 200 ml of water. Use a spray.
- Vitaros. Dilute 2 ml of the drug in 2 liters of water. Spray 2 times with an interval of 10 days.
This is a fungal disease of zygocactus, the development of which is influenced by a fungus of the genus Fusarium. It penetrates the plant through the soil and wounds, leading to decay of the root system and neck. For the prevention of using drugs such as Mycol and Byleton. If infection with Fusarium has occurred, then it is no longer possible to cure it.
When the lesion became apparent and the vascular system is damaged, then remove and burn the diseased specimen, And the soil in which he grew, process a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
The most common bacterial lesion remains that arises against the background of Erwinia bacteria groups. Symptomatology is as follows: first, a moist, sliding dark spot forms at the base of the stem, and if no action is taken, it will begin to cover the entire stem.
If only a part of the stem is affected, then it is easier to break off the stalk above the stalk. and notice the diseased plant growing new from the stem.
This parasite can cause significant damage to the plant. If you look closely, you can see a spider mite with the naked eye. Insects are small in size, may have yellow, brown and red color. The main reason for the development of spider mites is dry air. If this pest dwells on the Decembrist, then It is worth treating the plant with the following drugs:
Between treatments, you must observe intervals that depend on the air temperature in the room:
- +20 degrees - 9-10 days,
- +30 degrees - 3-4 days.
Save the Decembrist:
- At the first symptoms of a lesion, you should thoroughly wash the flower with laundry soap, then re-soap and leave in the same form for 2 hours.
- After the solution has been removed with water, put a plastic bag on the plant and leave it for 7-10 days.
- Such manipulations should be carried out after 7 days, as the laid eggs of spider mites can remain after the first procedure.
After processing, it is necessary to increase the humidity of the air by spraying or placing the flower in a pallet with wet pebbles.
This is a sucking insect, which has an oval pink body, covered with white bloom. On its back there are transverse stripes. The length of the parasite is 3-7 mm. A mealybug can be detected by the presence of white sticky mucus on the leaves of a flower. The buds of the plant suffer from insect, wither and fall.
For prophylaxis, it is necessary to regularly water and remove dried leaves. If the infection has occurred, then it is necessary to treat the bush with Aktara or Konfidor insecticide. 200 ml of water accounts for 2 ml of the drug. Spray the obtained solution to the plant, and repeat the procedure after 7 days.
From folk remedies, the following recipes remain effective:
- Mash 25 grams of garlic, add 1 liter of boiling water. Infuse for 6 hours, and then wipe the plant with a brush dipped in the infusion. Such events should be held in the evening. Cover the flower for 2 days from the sun's rays.
- Mix 1 l of water and 40 ml of olive oil. Moisten a cotton pad in the solution and walk through all the elements of the plant.
- Grind grated 10-15 g of green soap, add to 1 liter of water. Spraying is to be carried out 3 times, observing the intervals of 7 days.
The size of this parasite does not exceed 5 mm. Shchitovka sucks all the juices from the Decembrist. After that, his leaves turn yellow and dry out. If you do not start treatment in a timely manner, the flower may die.
To combat the parasite, you must use mechanical cleaning. Its essence is to apply Karbofos or Tanker solution to a cotton pad. Go through the fleece on the affected plants. Ankara solution can be used for treatment (8 g of the drug per 10 liters of water). In addition, it is necessary to review the humidity in the room so that it does not fall below 60%. Also slows their development bright sunlight.
From folk remedies you can try the following:
- Connect 1 liter of water and 40 g of soap. Add 5 drops of kerosene to the solution and shake well. Rub the problem areas of the Decembrist.
- Take a medium bulb, finely chop and pour 200 ml of water. Insist for 2-3 hours, filter and moisten a cotton disc in solution, walk through problem areas.
We offer to watch a video about the pests of the Decembrist and how to deal with them:
Why the Decembrist does not bloom
Inadequate lighting and poor soil often cause the zigokaktus not to bloom. No need to keep the plant on the north window, if necessary pritenyat from direct sunlight. You need to know how to care for the Decembrist to bloom. When the buds appear, the plant cannot be moved, as the Christmas tree can discard them.
Why does the Decembrist fadeRozhdestvennik bad reacts to the flow of dry hot air from the heating batteries: sluggish, shriveled Decembrist leaves will report this problem. Insufficient or excessive watering adversely affect the plant, it begins to fade. To avoid this, you should regularly spray the Christmas tree and periodically change the soil in the pot.
Why do the Decembrist fall segments and buds
Excessive moisture may cause the buds and leaves to fall off. Even if it seems to you that the Decembrist is drying, it is important not to overdo the watering. Decembrist easier to withstand ground dryness than excess liquid. If zigokaktus leave for some time without watering, and then remove it from the pot along with the earthy clod, you can find that the plant rotted roots. In this case, it will be necessary to plant the Christmas tree cuttings or change the soil and not water it for about a week.
Why shoots Decembrist blushIt so happens that the Decembrist appear red leaves, which indicates the growth of new cactus segments, excessive watering or improper feeding.
In addition, it is possible to get a burn with an abundance of sunlight.
Why the Decembrist is not growing
Schlyumberger can not grow due to several factors: insufficient feeding with mineral complexes or drying of the substrate. During the growth period - from the end of March to August - it should be fertilized with nitrogen and phosphorus, provide access to fresh air, sheltered from direct sunlight and do not forget about constant watering, spraying and washing with soft, warm water. If the Decembrist dries out, the first thing to do is to cheek and root again.
Treatment of fungal diseases Christmas tree
The plant can get sick Fusariumcaused by fungi of the genus Fusarium, that penetrate the plant through the soil and wounds, causing rotting of the roots and root collar. It can be cured with the Mycol and Baylet fungicides. Phitium affects the root neck, but can be treated with drugs "Maxim" and "Vitaroz."
Disease late blight arises due to infection with a group of Erwinia bacteria, manifested in the fact that a dark spot appears at the base of the stem, which further spreads over the entire stem, sometimes accompanied by discoloration of the stem. Often treatment with drugs is ineffective, the best way to protect the Christmas tree is to remove the affected part of the stem.
Typical Brazilian Zigocactus
The Decembrist, aka Zigokaktus or Schlyumberger, is found in nature in the warm and humid forests of Brazil. This cactus-epiphyte feels great even at an altitude of more than 2 thousand meters above sea level, but, apparently, this was not enough for him. Wild Decembrists, having settled in the tropical highland forests, climbed the trees themselves to see the sun.
In the overcast countries of Eurasia, the plant was brought only at the beginning of the XIX century. But since then, the nature of the forest zigokaktus changed slightly.
The name zigokaktus is derived from the Greek word “zigon”, which means “yoke” or “rocker”. The Schlumberger cactus was named in memory of Frederick Schlumberger, a French collector of tropical and desert plants.
This plant has a typical Brazilian character. Slightly relaxed and moderately lazy, this is facilitated by a constantly warm climate, self-confident, because dense stalks have a supply of food and moisture on a rainy day, and unpredictably bright when the time of flowering comes, if you want - carnival. The Decembrist blooms in such a way that it cannot be called a smooth waltz of flowers, it is Brazilian hot and incendiary samba. At the ends of branched stems bloom incredible beauty of the inflorescence.
It is worth more to talk about the appearance of the Decembrist. It may be a small bush and a large, spreading plant, stiffened at the base, depends on the variety and age of the flower. Some specimens reach a meter in diameter. The root system is poorly developed, as in all epiphytic plants. Dense flat stalks of the forest cactus, which consist of segments, are not burdened with leaves. At the ends of the shoots by the end of autumn buds are formed, which bloom with beautiful flowers consisting of several tiers. If pollination occurs, the fruits can start - small berries of bright pink color.
In the wild, zigokaktus pollinate butterflies and hummingbirds.
The Decembrist (or Schlumberger) is often confused with his close relative, ripsalidopsis. They are in fact very similar, only bloom at different times. This feature is noted in the popular names. The Decembrist is the Christmas cactus, and the ripsalidopsis is the Easter cactus. At the sight of an inexperienced florist, these plants are almost indistinguishable. But it is very important to know what kind of flower grows with you, because it is important for the proper care of plants.
At ripsalidopsis rest period - October and February. For Schlumberger (Decembrist) - this is the heyday. So, care for these related plants will be fundamentally different. The main distinguishing features of Christmas and Easter cacti are given in the comparative table.
Differences cactus Christmas and Easter in the photo
Decembrist - a plant is very tenacious, according to some data, its life expectancy is about 20 years. He is ready to endure a small drought, poor lighting, lack of dressings. But then the Christmas cactus can punish you by refusing to bloom. And if you follow simple rules of care, taking into account the life cycle of the plant, you will receive a Christmas present from the Decembrist as a reward - a stormy and Brazilian bright bloom.
Schlumberger (zygocactus) at home
For the second hundred years, the Decembrist has grown professional flower growers in greenhouses, while amateurs grow up at home. They loved this forest cactus for the beautiful flowers that it gives in winter, for the ease of care and long life expectancy. Zigokaktusy or Schlumbergers fit perfectly into any interior. Forest cacti can be placed in a hanging pots or on a high stand, there are upright hybrids. The Decembrist will add brightness to palm and succulent compositions.
Breeders have successfully worked on the color of the flowers of the zygocactus. Now the Decembrist makes florists happy with variety. Pink, red, yellow, orange, purple, white and multicolor flowers bloom on the Decembrists for Christmas. More about some varieties.
- Schlumbergera truncated (or truncated zygocactus). It is a shrub reaching a height of about half a meter, with arcuate stems, sharp teeth along the edges are clearly expressed on their segments. The color of the flowers is different. There are varieties with white, pink, purple and lilac buds.
- Schlumberger or zigokaktus Buckley. Half-meter bush, dark green stalks, at the edges of the segments small protrusions. The flowers are large, about 8 cm, tubular, composed of several tiers of petals. Color from pale lilac to purple-pink. On the basis of this species, many hybrid varieties have been developed, they differ significantly in the shape of the segments and the color of the buds.
- Russelian zigokaktus. Bush no more than 30 cm in height. Stems, strongly drooping, with satin shine. Flowers pink, purple and red. Russelian zigokaktus became the basis for the development of hybrid forms. They are much tougher and more decorative than their predecessors.
Among the hybrid varieties: golden yellow Golden Cream, dazzling white November diamond, lilac-snow Madame Butterfly, Enigma purple with curly petals.
Growing conditions at home (table)
Zigokaktus is an unusual succulent. This plant loves more than light, but water. Therefore, it will live even at the north window, but not near the heating devices. This cactus is an epiphyte, and it needs air with high humidity. And in summer the plant feels great outdoors, so it’s best to take it out to the garden or to the balcony. What other conditions are required for the Decembrist? About this - in the table.
Features transplant: from soil selection to step-by-step process
The Decembrist is transplanted at the end of February, after he has faded. During the rest period, the plant will safely get used to the new pot, and the time of growth (this is the summer months) will be used with benefit. Replace young zigokaktusy every year, adult Decembrists in four to five years.
Pay attention to the choice of a pot for your cactus. Material does not matter. But the shape is important. Suitable capacity is 2–3 cm wider than the old pot, and not excessively deep. The roots of an epiphytic plant do not develop inland, but in breadth, over the surface.
Substrate zigokaktusu like air and light, subacid. It can be a mixture of turf and leaf soil, peat and sand. There add a brick crumb or fine expanded clay. Coal powder will make the substrate even easier and disinfect it. You do not want to make a soil mix yourself, buy a special soil for forest cacti in the store.
Decembrist transplant - the procedure is simple. Just be careful, cactus segments break off easily. And if some branch broke off - this is a good reason to engage in the reproduction of the plant (see below). While transplant Decembrist.
- Take a suitable size pot.
- Lay drainage materials at the bottom: expanded clay, broken brick, pebbles. The drainage layer should fill a third of the pot.
- Pour some new substrate on top of the drain.
- Carefully remove the plant from the old container. If it doesn't give in, loosen the ground from the edges. Watering on the eve of transplantation is not worth it.
- Lightly shake off the old soil, keeping most of the earthy coma.
- Inspect the roots, remove those that have dried or rotted.
- Set the plant in a new pot, distribute the roots and pour a little ground. Lightly seal it as you fill the pot. It is not necessary to ram with force, it is possible to damage the roots. In addition, the Decembrist prefers loose soil.
- After planting, water and spray the plant and care for it according to the period.
As experts say, transplantation has a beneficial effect on the health of the Decembrist. After the relocation, its root system and stems become stronger, as a result it blooms more abundantly.
Zigokaktus or Decembrist, as stated more than once, is easy to clean. The plant is undemanding, tolerates both drought and waterlogging.
Nuances of watering and dressing
Although Decembrist and cactus, he is a moisture-loving plant. Water it should be about the same as deciduous indoor flowers. Do not wait until the earth lump dries in the pot with the Decembrist. It may suffer some drought, but not for long. Prolonged lack of moisture, and even in combination with dry air, is detrimental to the root system.
Земляной ком чуть подсох — это сигнал: пора поливать. Щедро поливайте рождественский кактус во время наращивания зелени, летом.
В начале осени, перед образованием бутонов сократите полив, так вы простимулируете цветение. And with the advent of the first buds again increase watering. But do not flood the cactus. This mode is always wet soil, but not dirt - save until the end of flowering.
During the winter holidays restrict watering again. During this period, the overmoistening of the soil is especially dangerous. The air temperature is lowered, and overflow threatens with rotting roots. In April, move to abundant moisture as the soil dries.
The Decembrist can grow on poor soil without nutrients. But this does not contribute to the development of the plant and the rapid flowering. Therefore, zigokaktusy need to fertilize during the entire growing season. Purchase liquid mineral nutrition containing potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen in a specialty store. Once a fortnight, or a month, add it to irrigation water. Make the solution twice as weak as the instructions.
It is possible to carry out foliar feeding, adding fertilizer to the water for spraying. But then still reduce the concentration of the drug.
A month before preparing for flowering, that is, around September, stop feeding. In the period of flowering and dormancy, the Decembrist will completely dispense with food. Fertilizers can even harm the plant. Resume top dressing only at the end of spring.
Pruning and shaping the bush
Usually, together with a zigocactus transplant, after the end of flowering, the bush is also formed. This simple procedure helps to rejuvenate the plant and makes it look more attractive.
You will not need scissors or other cutting tools. Christmas cactus can not be cut! Nature herself has provided an effective way to give shape to this handsome man. Stem segments are easily removed. Select the branches that you think should be shortened. Holding the segment remaining on the plant, gently separate the excess with a twisting motion. Hard to tear off the parts is not worth it, so as not to injure the zygocactus.
Thus, give the Decembrist the desired shape. Such a plucking not only improves the appearance of the plant, but also helps growth and flowering.
Your Christmas cactus did not grow the buds in November, and there are no flowers for the holiday? Think when you make a mistake in the care.
- The first and most common reason for the lack of flowering - your Decembrist did not have time to rest during the rest period after the previous flowering. The temperature was higher than necessary, watering more abundantly. The time has come to flourish, and the Decembrist simply does not have the strength for new flowers.
- Incorrectly passed the period before flowering. This is such a kind of pause, which must be sustained in September and October. At this time, the air temperature is reduced to 15-18 degrees. Watering is reduced. And so before the formation of buds. As soon as you see the first bud, move the Decembrist to a warm place, increase watering and do not bother.
- Frequent rearranging of the pot with the Decembrist from place to place.
- Lack of nutrients in the soil. Feed the zigokaktus, maybe he decides to bloom.
In February, giving all the power to bloom, the Christmas cactus is sent to rest. And so napping until April.
If you want your little flower to sleep well, provide him with special conditions. The main thing - the cool air is not higher, plus 15 degrees. Do you think this can be done only in the greenhouse, and in a normal apartment is difficult? Nothing difficult. Put the Decembrist closer to the window glass, preferably to the north, and block it with a small screen or its likeness. In such a mini-garden, the temperature will be significantly lower than in the room. The second condition for a good hibernation - poor watering.
If you have successfully cooled and dried your zygocactus, the transition to the growth phase will begin at the end of March. The stems will grow young shoots to please you again flowering.
Schlumbergera - a blooming classic with nostalgic charm
Schlumberger (Schlumbergera) in different years was classified in different genera of cacti, longest lingering in the company of zigokaktus. But today, with a species name, the plants have finally decided. Schmooberberts got their name in honor of the French collector and keen botany lover. The botanical "Schlumberger" is inferior in popularity to sweet and eloquent national nicknames. "Christmas tree", "Christmas cactus", "Decembrist", "Varvarin Tsvet" - this is what the true admirers of her beauty call Schlumberberger.
Schlumbergers belong to the Cactus family (Cactaceae). In nature, they can be admired in the tropical forests of South America, where they are fixed not only on the trunks, but also on the roots of gigantic trees. Schlumbergera - natural winter-flowering plants, because the peak of their flowering occurs in the summer in the southern hemisphere, corresponding to our winter. Flowering in December and February is natural for them.
Schlumbergera belong to epiphytic cacti. The height of Schlumberger is limited to 15-50 cm, depending on the capacity, the formation strategy or the lack of it. Shoots can be pulled out and stronger, but only in a neglected state. Flat, segmented, tough, fleshy shoots with a rather dark color are decorated with surprisingly beautiful relief, thanks to a large toothed or scalloped edge.
They hang down, curving in arcs, sparsely, but beautifully divided, reminding of other ampel cactuses. Segments of stems from 3 to 10 cm long look elegant. Dark, saturated colors underlines the shiny surface. Halos are located between the teeth and on the tops, most often they are pubescent.
Schumberberger is not accidentally compared to rhododendrons in abundant blooms. At the peak of flowering, the plant is littered with so many bright flowers that almost no attention is paid to the greens. Flowers at Schlumberger bloom at the ends of the shoots, developing amazingly quickly. They look like stars and are typical of all cacti in many ways.
Multi-tiered and long-tubular, asymmetrical, the flowers of Schwömberger adorn not only lanceolate, pointed lobes of the perianth, fancifully bent back, but also long "bunches" of elegant, hanging stamens. In Schlumbergères, there are daytime flowers that open during daylight hours.
Schmümberberts are associated with scarlet and bright pink flowers. This is a brightly colored plant, it often looks very attractive in a winter interior. But today this plant is white-flowered, purple, and motley-two-colored, although the palette remains mainly in the framework of the white-red spectrum. New hybrids have expanded the set of familiar pastel and bright colors with interesting fruit-yellow shades.
The flowering period of the Schlumberger traditionally coincides with your favorite Christmas holidays, starting in December and continuing for more than one week. Schlumbergera almost tirelessly produces flower after flower. With proper care, you can admire the flowering until the end of January.
The timing of flowering can be changed, often Christmas trees bloom at another time and by themselves, because the beginning of flowering directly depends not only on temperature, but also on lighting. Some varieties are bred with initially “set”, excellent terms or longer, but not winter flowering. That is why Schlumberger advise to buy flowering, so you can appreciate the usual plant rhythms.
Types of room Schumberberger
Old, prone to loss of decorative shoots, not so thickly branching and not so varied in colors Schlumberberger "Soviet times" have long been a thing of the past. They were supplanted by new hybrid varieties that made the popular plant fashionable and modern.
Of course, Schlumberberger is further often perceived as outdated retro-culture, but in the interiors it does not look like a nostalgic relic. Species as indoor plants today are becoming less common or the type of plant is not indicated at all, replaced by the simple Latin name of the plant Schlumbergera and the name of the variety.
Among the most decorative types of schlumberger that are used in hybridization are:
Schlumberger Buckley (Schlumbergera x bucklei) - epiphytic cactus with branched dark flat shoots with emerald shade of color. With a maximum height of 50 cm, it is distinguished by cylindrical, fleshy stems, flat segments with slightly pronounced teeth and fluffy areoles. The flowers are large, up to 8 cm long with a very unusual yellowish tube. Varieties differ not only in shades of color - white, yellow, pink, purple, but even in the size and shape of segments, allowing you to choose according to your taste classical or more original plants.
Schlumberger Gartner (Schlumbergera gaertneri) - spectacular red flowering species with less neat stems. Segments grow to 8 cm, bushes are not as thick as in other species. Orange-red flowers with a wider tube seem to be glowing stars, due to the highly elongated petals.
Schlumbergera Russelliana (Schlumbergera russelliana) - more modest in size, but not in appearance, with a maximum height of up to 30 cm. Flat, bright green, with warm shades of color shoots in length are able to stretch up to 1 m. Festooned edge makes flat segments very beautiful, like pubescent areoles from which the drooping flowers develop. With a length of only up to 4 cm, the stem segments appear almost translucent due to the darker central vein. The flowers are large, spectacular, with a light green tube and a large number of petals. The colors of this type Schlumberger are limited to pink-red variations.
Schlumbergera truncated (Schlumbergera truncata) - a powerful succulent with drooping, articulated shoots, with increasing power and growing to 50 cm in height. This type of Schölberbergers looks very elegant due to the fact that the shoots segments rarely exceed 5 cm at half the width, they are as close as possible to the leaves in form. The pronounced teeth alternate with underlined fine bristles of areolae, repeated at the tips of the shoots. Flat shoots are arched and painted in rich bright green, on young twigs a marshy tone. Flowers emphasize the accuracy of the structure. With a diameter of up to 5 cm, they are more symmetrical than those of other schlumberger, with a very long curved tube and a wide-open rim. Varieties of this species offer a choice between white-pink-red-purple hues.
Schlumbergera, despite the status of the golden classics, has never been a “for all” plant. To decide to grow a Decembrist is only worth gardeners with some experience growing tropical species, and even then, provided that it is possible to provide the coolness necessary for wintering. But the strict requirements for the rest period are compensated by the ability to choose differently lit places, and a wide range of temperatures for the period of active growth.
The dormant period at Schlyumberger with traditional flowering periods lasts from September to the end of November. The plant will not be able to bloom without cool conditions during the rest period.
Lighting and accommodation
Despite the status of a beautiful flowering plant, Schlumberger is not as light-requiring as most competitors are. It develops best in diffused lighting, and if it is carefully maintained, it can settle even in partial shade. Of course, in strong shading the plant will not bloom. But only on the windowsill Schlyumberger is not necessary to place.
The direct sun does not like the plant, the rays leave burns on the shoots and lead to a quick loss of decoration. Seasonal reduction in lighting in winter, coinciding with the flowering period, it is desirable to compensate by moving to lighter places. Schlumberger prefer to bloom on the brightest windowsill in the house - the south.
Schlumberger can be grown both as a pot and as an ampelous plant, using drooping shoots to create beautiful cascades. But to place it always stands below the point of view, so that the view on the cactus bushes falls from top to bottom. Schlumbergera are good in group plantings, collections of cacti and tropical plants.
Temperature and ventilation
Despite belonging to tropical cacti, Schlyumberberger is not at all as thermophilic as it seems. For her there is no need to strictly select the temperature, because the plant is able to cope with the heat and coolness. In the period of active growth, she is quite comfortable at any temperature from 18 to 30 degrees.
During the rest period, Schlumbergera should enjoy a comfortable coolness. Compliance with temperature regimes plays a key role in stimulating flowering. For Schtumbergers, the air temperature must remain within the range of 10 to 15 degrees. In the coolness, Schlumberber is kept for 2–3 months, then returning it to heat to start the process of active growth. If the plant is grown with the usual December flowering, then Schluberberger should be brought back to heat in early December.
Schlumberger can be taken out in the summer to the garden or to the balconies. The plant loves fresh air, but is afraid of too bright lighting, and in the garden for the cactus you need to choose semi shady or shady locations.
Schlumberger is not as light-loving as most competitors. © Joey Martoni
Care for Schlumberger at home
Compared with other cacti, it is difficult to call Schrumberger a simple plant. We have to adjust the irrigation in accordance with its stage of development, to ensure constant monitoring for signs of problems and not to forget about the formation. The love of high humidity also does not simplify the cultivation of this culture.
Watering and humidity
Unlike most cacti, Schlumbergera is quite moisture-loving. She likes abundant watering during the period of active growth, requires more frequent watering and is much worse tolerated by drying out of the soil and improper watering than conventional succulents. But it remains a true succulent in its fear of wetting and dampness.
Watering Schrumberberger should be carried out carefully, in small portions of water, evenly soaking the soil and immediately draining excess water from the pallets, in no case soaking the shoots. Before the next watering, make sure that the top of the substrate is dry.
For a period of rest, watering is reduced to a minimum; since September, gradually reducing these procedures, the increased humidity of the substrate at this time is critically dangerous. Renew abundant watering with the advent of buds. After flowering, Schülberbergers, regardless of whether they are transplanting or not, keep the plant for a month or one and a half in slightly lower humidity allowing the soil to dry out more, and then resume its usual abundant watering. The soil in the tanks should be left almost dry.
For Schtumbergers, water quality will have to be controlled. It should be soft, separated, warmer by a couple of degrees than the soil during the period of active development.
The air humidity for this succulent must be high. Dry air has a negative effect on the state of greenery. The usual method of increasing humidity for this plant is spraying, but they can be carried out only outside the budding and flowering period, therefore, during the working season of heating systems for Schöntomberger, the humidity should be maintained by installing special devices or pallets with wet moss, expanded clay, and stones.
Fertilizers and fertilizer composition
For Schlumbergera, top dressing can only be done outside the rest period. Since September, fertilization is interrupted, resuming only when the cactus grows again. Too generous dressings will not benefit the plant: fertilizers are applied either in half the dosage, or two times less than for ordinary houseplants.
For Schlumbergers, you need to use special fertilizers for succulents and cacti. They do not tolerate elevated nitrogen, need an increased dose of potassium.
For Schlumbergera, top dressing can only be done outside the rest period. © Cheryl Wright
Pruning and shaping Schumberberger
Without special measures for thickening Schlumbergers will never turn into lush, elegant bushes. Typically, this plant is prone to not only pulling, but also losing the ability to produce side shoots as the number of segments grows.
For Schlumbergers, very simple formation measures are needed — plucking or breaking off the outermost segments to stimulate the growth of new branches. Cutting the segments is not worth it, but a simple rotational movement with a flat segment clamped in a hand is the best option. Scrap sites are not treated.
The formation procedure on Schlumberger is best done immediately after flowering.
Over time, the lower part of the shoots becomes woody, but with regular formation the plant retains its decorative effect for decades.
Transplant Schlumbergers, Capacities and Substrate
Schlumberger is transplanted only when she has mastered the previous capacity. For large adults, Schlumberger can be limited to transplanting every five years. It is better to make a transplant shortly after the end of flowering, before the beginning of rapid growth of greenery, in extreme cases - in the beginning or middle of spring, during March or April.
When choosing containers for growing Schlumberger, it is better to dwell on classical pots for epiphytes with a minimum height, in the extreme case - not exceeding the diameter. The brighter the capacity, the better this plant looks.
В отличие от многих других собратьев, шлюмбергера не может расти в бедной и слишком легкой почве. Это растение нуждается в качественном грунте с хорошими показателями питательности. Можно использовать специальную почву для эпифитов или субстраты для суккулентов. Показатели рН должны оставаться в пределах диапазона 5,5-6,5.
If the soil is mixed independently, then it is better to stop at a simple earth mixture from sand, leaf and sod soil in a ratio of 1: 2: 1 or a mixture of sand and leaf soil. Even in the purchase of the substrate is better to add charcoal as a preventive measure.
When transplanting plants should be treated as carefully as possible and with numerous shoots and plant roots, trying to avoid contact and gently perevalivaya cactus.
Diseases, pests and problems in the cultivation of Schömbergers
Of diseases Schlumberger threaten to fusarium and rot, and then with the wrong care. In case of a mild injury, the correction of care will have time to stop the process, but in case of serious it is necessary to cut the damaged parts and an emergency transplant with fungicides.
Wreckers Schlumberger are threatened when kept in dry air. Beautiful flowering cactus are very fond of scale insects and felts, which are best dealt with immediately with insecticidal preparations.
Common problems in growing Schlumberger:
- growth stop when the substrate dries out in the summer or when overflowing during the rest period,
- dropping flower buds when water gets in and when temperature rises,
- lethargy or wrinkling with improper watering,
- redness of shoots when the light is too bright
- lack of flowering with an unseasoned rest period.
Schlumbergera never entered the lists of elite, expensive plants - first of all, because it is very easy to reproduce. The plant at home can be obtained from simple cuttings.
Schulemberger stem cuttings do not root too quickly, but there is nothing difficult in the process of growing new plants. The best time for grafting is similar to the period of formation - immediately after completion of flowering. But for rooting, not separate segments, but apical stem fragments with 2-3 segments are used.
The place of breaking is treated with charcoal and dried. Schutmberger plants root in light soil or simple sandy-peat substrate, under a hood with or without regular airing, with frequent light irrigation. Plants develop fairly quickly.
Grafting is a method of obtaining and preserving luxurious varietal plants at no extra cost for those who have a large collection of cacti. As a stock, not other Schlumbergers are used, but prickly pears or prickly peres, if desired, of obtaining a stem or tree form. Vaccination is carried out in the summer, on the bare, split stems above, grafting shoots with 2-3 segments.
The accretion is carried out without a cap, at a moderate temperature of about 20 degrees. As they grow from the stock, any leaves and shoots are removed.