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What water to water rabbits

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The importance of water consumption by humans is well known, but do beginner breeders know about the role of liquid for eared fish? After all, you need to be aware of all the subtleties and rules: what to water the rabbits, how to give them water and much more.

How to water the rabbits

The importance of water for rabbits

At seventy percent of the body of the rabbit consists of liquid, and this means that water is vital eared. This is the main fluid that they need. When water is supplied in the required quantities, the processes of digestion and assimilation of food occur, as expected, all nutrients are absorbed into the blood without difficulty.

In addition, water affects the timely emptying of the animal, maintains its body temperature at the desired level.

Consequences of lack of fluid

If your pet starts to receive less liquid for drinking for any reason, indigestion is guaranteed to it. What will be followed by kidney problems, blood clots, hair loss, etc.

By the way, one of the reasons for such an unpleasant phenomenon, as the female eats her newborn offspring, is the lack of drinking near her. It is believed that in this way "mother" saves children from the alleged death from thirst, because she herself will not start lactation if she does not drink a lot of water. It is especially important to give the rabbit a drink right after the shot, when she loses a very large amount of liquid.

Rules for water consumption rabbit

The frequency with which to feed the rabbit is twice a day, in the morning and in the evening, if there is no automatic drinking. However, in summer, when there is unbearable heat, you can safely increase this number up to three times a day, for example, at lunchtime. In the summer period it is correct to pour cool (but not cold) water into the drinking troughs, approximately 18–20 ° C.

What kind of water do rabbits need?

Water for fluffies is taken from clean sources (from a tap, a well). Rivers, ponds and other water bodies are not suitable for this purpose. Defend water a day or filtered. Boil is not necessary. Before “feeding” it can even be slightly warmed up, but not much, room temperature will be quite enough.

They give animals to drink before handing out feed. If you are going to feed grass, then water before or after cutting after feeding can cause bloating in the stomach.

How to determine the need for eared water

To understand how much liquid an animal needs, you need to relate these factors to each other:

  • pet age
  • his state of health
  • breed
  • season,
  • ambient air temperature
  • frequency and doses of dry feed intake.

For example, young animals, females before and after hatching should drink much more than older rabbits. During the day they can drink a liter, or even more than two and a half liters.

When the diet of rabbits consists mainly of dry food, the amount of water must be increased: one kilogram of dry food equals 1-2 liters of liquid. If you enter into the menu for animal juicy food: greens, roots, usually in the fall, then they need to drink less. So you prevent upset stomach eared.

In addition, each breed can drink more or less than the rest. If you follow the constant availability of water in drinking bowls, constantly changing it to fresh and clean, then the animals themselves will figure out how many people need to drink.

It’s another thing if, apart from ignoring the fluid, the eared mouse refuses to eat, has little mobility or does not move at all. These are clear signs of illness.

Drinkers for rabbits

As a bowl for the rabbit, you can use the most common containers: bowls, shallow plates, etc. True, their inconvenience is that different garbage easily gets there, incl. wool, food, eared feces, and water becomes unsuitable for consumption. Also, the animals, moving around the cage, turn over the light container. As a result, they have nothing to drink, their litter becomes wet, which causes paw diseases.

So from which to water the rabbits, so that it is convenient for both animals and owners? The option with special drinkers fits great. They are made independently or buy ready designs. There are open drinkers and nipple. The latter are bottles fixed on the cage and are considered more hygienic. The animal presses on the nipple and gets some water when it needs it.

Whether to give eared milk?

Everyone knows that little rabbits drink milk, they need it for normal development. But is it necessary to continue giving it to adult individuals? Due to the fact that the digestive system of rabbits is an extremely fragile system, it is not necessary to feed them with milk, as well as feed other derived products.

How to water rabbits in winter

Special attention should be paid to the rules of water supply to rabbits in winter. The main difficulty lies in the fact that when the thermometer drops lower and lower, the water in the drinking water gets colder, if not frozen.

The task of how to water the rabbits with water in the winter is solved if there is an opportunity to warm up some water in the automatic mode. Otherwise, it will have to be heated a couple of times a day to 30-35 ° C, so that the pets do not have to drink ice water, this is simply unacceptable.

Snow instead of water?

There is such a method, to give the rabbits winter snow instead of water. Still use ice. Some breeders explain this approach by the fact that in natural conditions, eared birds survive in the period of cold weather, because nobody poured water for them especially or warmed them up.

However, this method should be resorted to only as a last resort, when there are no other options. At the same time, snow or ice should be clean.

But remember that the use of snow threatens a significant decrease in the body temperature of the animal, and therefore various colds. Also, the frozen rabbit and will eat many times more. It turns out that instead of spending on an electric drinker or independently heating water, the money will be spent on additional purchases of feed or, in the worst case, drugs.

Some rabbit breeders add cow's milk to water - for bunnies during lactation. Opinions about such an additive are ambiguous: some believe that water with milk increases lactation, while others are negative about drinking because of the danger of upset digestion in animals. Instead of cow's milk, it is advised to buy the milk of other animals in the pet store, which is closer in composition to the rabbit milk.

What to water rabbits

Of course, to water the rabbits, you can use the most ordinary bowls or other containers, common in everyday life. But, although these animals do not have the constant habit of running amok in cages, sometimes they can get nauseous: turn over the bowls and wet the litter. Besides the fact that rabbits deprive themselves of drinking in this way, they are also at risk of soaking their paws, which can lead to diseases of the extremities.

Wool, rubbish, pieces of food, and even animal excrement often get into open bowls. Such drinking is not conducive to good health and quickly sour - you need to change it very often.

It is best to use a drinker

Much better than ordinary bowls will be fixed drinking bowls that cannot be turned over. Another excellent option is nipple drinkers, purchased or made by hand. Such a drinker is a bottle filled with water and suspended from a cage door or mesh. The rabbit gets his drink by pressing his tongue on the nipple (ball or drinker spout). Water in a closed container is not polluted and does not evaporate, the animals can not overturn it or wash their paws in it.

There is also a simpler version of the device of a closed drinker - vacuum. The bottle should be inserted into the fixed bowl with water at the very neck.

As the animals empty the cup, the liquid gradually flows into the tank (the pressure difference does not allow it to pour out immediately). There is a small chance that the water will still leak, but this is a very cheap and simple drinker option.

Both species have a common drawback - in the winter time, the water in such bottles can freeze. To get rid of it, you can apply heating technology (for example, as with underfloor heating) or stock up with a thermostat.

Wintering rabbits are not afraid

My sister and I were really keen on breeding rabbits at a dacha following the example of L.N. Blokhin. Only one problem torments us: how to create the necessary conditions for wintering animals. Too troublesome every spring to start all over again, you have to buy animals again and build cages on tiny balconies. Therefore, we hope that the experienced breeder will continue his story.

I want to talk about how to keep the uterine population of rabbits in the winter at their summer cottage, and bring the young stock in the spring. What is necessary for this?

First, sow fodder beet in the country. If for some reason this was not possible, you can buy it. In the fall, it is not too expensive even for pensioners. The required amount of beets is easy to calculate. It depends on the number of females left for the winter. I recommend leaving three or four. Assuming that each rabbit per day can eat 0.5 kg of beets, for four females for seven months (from October to April) 0.5x4x210 = 420 kg will be required. This is about the harvest from 0.7 acres of land.

Secondly, during the summer it is necessary to harvest hay. Each rabbit eats about 300 g per day. For four people, in order to avoid hunger and disease, hay needs 0.3x4x210 = 250 kg. Try still to dry it more, so that was a guaranteed stock. Harvested hay must first be stored in a shed, under a canopy or stacked in a temporary stack.

Third, in June-July it is time to prepare aspen and willow branches. They are tied up in bunches (brooms) and tied up in a shed or under a shed for drying. In the sun brooms can not be dried, because the sheet will turn black. When the brooms are dry, they can be folded into a pile under a canopy or in a barn. So they will take less places. Such a branch feed will require 1 kg per head per day, and for the whole winter period for four rabbits 1.0x4x210 = 840 kg.

In November, select the 3-4 largest females and leave them in the fence. Sell ​​the rest of the rabbits or stock up on tender meat for the winter. After cleaning and removal of manure proceed to the preparation of wintering for queens.

To do this, in the middle of the fence, dig a pole (count) 3–4 m high into the ground. Then make a rectangular-shaped tunnel (manhole) from the planks, approximately one and a half meters long. The hole in it should be 18–20 cm wide, 23–25 cm high. Put a tunnel on the ground radius from a dug pole, so that it faces the box cage.

Transfer the harvested fodder beet and spread on the ground around the pole, placing the tubers as close as possible to it. Beets should be folded as a cone. The smaller the diameter of the pile of beets below, on the ground, the better. But at the same time you need to carefully ensure that you do not lay the hole of the tunnel, use the board, placing it on top. Putting the whole winter stock of beets, put hay on it. Again, make sure that the opening of the tunnel remains open. Beets should be covered on all sides with a layer of hay not less than 60 cm thick. In general, the more hay the better. Frost protection will be safer. Having laid a layer of hay around the pole, we lay out one row of brooms on it - a branch feed. Then again a layer of hay and a layer of brooms, etc. We collect all the hay and brooms in the stock pile folded around the pole so that the stack upwards decreases in diameter. This is done to ensure that the water runs down the stack surface to the ground, and does not fall inside. Now you need to collect any old boards, shields, old iron, etc. And impose a stack of them on all sides, so that the rabbits could not pull out the hay outside.

To eat when winter comes and snow falls, the rabbit will have to go through the tunnel, get out of it inside the haystack, and have a dinner of three tasty dishes in front of it. The animals are very resourceful when it comes to foraging. I learned this from my own experience. Rabbits will quickly find a tunnel and will surely climb into it. The opening of the tunnel, on the opposite side of the pole, should be at the very stack and clearly visible from the side. The first rabbit, having discovered the entrance to the tunnel and having lunch, will thus begin to form a niche in the hay, which, gradually expanding, will create enough space for the simultaneous feeding of all the hibernating rabbits. For safety, in case a rabbit does not immediately detect the entrance under the stack, you need to put hay in the summer grass bowl.

As hay and brooms are eaten away inside the haystack, the upper layers of these feeds should be lowered down, therefore it is necessary to place a load (for example, two bags of stones) at the top of the stack, respectively, securing it so that it can fall freely. And the pole, in order not to interfere with the movement of the layers, should be smooth, without knots.

Water in the autumn can not leave, she still freezes. By the way, there is enough water in fodder beet for normal life activity of rabbits. When snow falls, the animals can use it instead of water. In winter, the rabbit cage should be warm. Put more straw in there - and everything will be fine.

Finishing the conversation about winter feeding of rabbits, I want to say that you should not lay carrots under a stack, as it spoils very quickly, and economically it is unprofitable.

Now you can leave the cottage for the whole winter. But I am sure that you will not stand up and visit your pets more than once. Talk to them, bring gifts, such as carrots or mash. The animals will feel that they are not abandoned and remember them. On arrival, check if the hay is falling down the steak. If necessary, with something heavy (a board, a pole), carefully press the top of the hay. Substitute for this ladder and climb up.

In late February, buy a male. I do not recommend to leave for the wintering, as there will be winter broods. And will the little rabbit be able to survive in severe frosts? In addition, the male can be from one brood with females, which is highly undesirable.

Having bought a male, bring him to the cottage in early March and release him into the fence. After 2-3 weeks, take the male and hold it in some drawer on the balcony or loggia. By the way, when you arrive at the cottage at the end of winter or in early spring, do not forget to check whether there is hay and brooms under the snow. If something is not, it is advisable to attach.

By the beginning of the roundabout, it is necessary to make 3 or 4 (by the number of females) cage boxes for hatching young. You can build a large common cell. Metal mesh in the manufacture is not required. It is just that a box 50 cm wide, 45 cm high and 100 cm long (depth) is knocked together from any planks. A partition with a hole is made inside the cage, so the nest is separated. The dimensions of the two windows (outer and in the nest) should be 20 × 25 cm. It is necessary to lay more straw in the nests.

If you have had cages from last year that stood on a balcony or loggia, you can simply bring them to the cottage, and not build new cages-boxes.

In early April, the females will appear rabbits. By this time, in each of the nesting cells there must necessarily be dishes with water. It is advisable, arriving at the dacha at this time, to bring with him a mash or cereal (oats, barley) and lay out dressing in the feeders, placed in the fence. Cereals can be left with a reserve until the next arrival.

When you make sure that all the queens have young, at the very beginning of April, arriving on two days off, bring the male. Put it in some drawer and place the females on it.

What to feed the rabbits in the winter: make up the diet and comply with the regime

When all the females are covered, the male can be sold or made of it a festive dish.

In April, you often visit the cottage - almost every weekend. Often feed the females mash, and in the stack still have to be stocks. Shields, boards from the stack can already be removed, let the rabbits come to him from all sides.

By the time of the second round, plant the youngsters in a large cage-box, putting enough straw in it, and preferably hay, so that the little rabbits are warm, especially at night.

At the beginning of May, the nights are still cold. Hookers with mash are now installed next to the cage-box, where the young are. There should always be water next to the food, it is also necessary in the cells of the females.

After feeding the uterus of little rabbits from the second rounds, the period of keeping and feeding begins, the same as last summer.

Read more articles on this topic here.

Breeding rabbits - quite an exciting process. But those who have done this at least once, must have encountered the problem of supplying drinking water to animals during the winter period. If it is cold outside, water in bowls and drinking bowls simply turns into ice and rabbits cannot drink it.

What to water rabbits in winter, if the water in the troughs freezes

Is there no way out? Of course, there is. Read carefully.

  • electric drinker. kettle, ice or pure snow

Use pieces of pure ice or snow. Кролики отлично могут использовать вместо воды снег и даже лед, ведь в дикой природе у них не всегда есть доступ к воде в зимнее время. Следите за тем, чтобы у животных был постоянный доступ к мискам, в которых находится чистый снег или льдинки и обязательно пополняйте запас, если животные его израсходуют. Внимательно отнеситесь к приготовлению льда – берите только чистую воду.It is also necessary to put snow in bowls only clean, because of the quality of the consumed fluid health and well-being rabbits depends very much.

Use warm water and regularly change bowls in animals. In severe cold even hot water turns into ice very quickly and rabbits cannot use it. Care must be taken to ensure that there is always liquid water in the bowls. And this requires a certain skill and zeal. Add warm water to animals and make sure they have time to drink before it freezes. In severe frost, it is sometimes necessary to go around all the cages several times a day to provide the animals with water in the required amount.

Purchase an electric drinker for rabbits. Many rabbitsOdes make such devices independently, connecting several boilers of small capacity. But for working with animals, it is best to use a drinker made by professionals, this will save you from unwanted electric shocks and ensure uniform power consumption. The device of such a drinker is quite simple - a bowl or a container with water is supplied with an additional layer of insulation that prevents rapid cooling with atmospheric air, and at the same time a direct-current heating element is connected to the drinker, which does not allow water to freeze.

Sent: Shestakova Maria. 2017-09-18 13:23:27

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