It affects the leaves, stems and inflorescences. The first signs of a lesion are noticeable in late July - early August. A white cobweb appears on the lower leaves, it thickens, moves to the upper leaves, stems and inflorescences. At the end of August the leaves become grayish-brown in color and die prematurely. Mushroom overwinters on plant debris. The development of the disease contributes to dry, hot weather. Old, thickened, clogged plantings of phlox are more affected by powdery mildew.
Phlox leaf septoriosis
The first signs of the disease occur on the lower leaves in early June. The spots are numerous, small, greyish with a reddish-brown border, with black points of pycnidia. Strongly affected leaves curl, dry out and fall off, the plants lose their decorative effect. Infection persists on plant debris. On open sunny areas phlox is affected by septoria more than on shaded ones.
On the leaves appear brown, round spots of size 2 - 10 mm with a purple-brown border. On spots there are black pycnidia points. Mushrooms are preserved on plant debris. Leaf spots reduce the decorative appearance of phloxes, reduce the assimilation surface of the leaves, weaken the plants and reduce their winter hardiness.
Measures to combat phlox fungal diseases
A reliable way to prevent phlox disease is to create good conditions for their growth and development. Phlox should be transplanted after 3 - 4 years, since young plants suffer less from diseases. Thickened plantings should be avoided, systematic removal of weeds, destruction of plant residues and digging up the soil around the plant with a reservoir turnover. In the spring, it is necessary to mulch the planting of phlox with peat or humus to avoid contamination of young leaves from old ones. After full regrowth of the plants, carry out 2 - 3 preventive treatments with fungicides: 0.5% chloro-oxide of copper, 0.4 - 0.5% zineb, with an interval of 10 - 15 days. When the first signs of defeat with powdery mildew appear, it is necessary to treat the plants with a 0.5% solution of soda ash or laundry detergent with an interval of 10-15 days until the fungus plaque completely disappears.
Viral leaf necrosis
Leaf plates are deformed, necrotic spots of irregular shape are formed on them. The leaves become rough and dry.
Mycoplasma disease. Numerous lateral shoots develop on the stems, the plants lag behind, do not bloom, the leaves become deformed, become chlorotic, fragile, the petals and stamens turn into leaflike formations.
Non-infectious phlox disease
Noncommunicable diseases appear under adverse environmental conditions. The lack of moisture in the soil causes yellowing and drying of the lower leaves, and wilting of plants. Air drought after heavy rains or watering also contributes to the drying of the lower leaves. Excess moisture in the soil disrupts gas exchange, the roots rot, and the plants wither. With all types of physiological drying on dead, dried leaves, saprophytic fungi develop. In some varieties of phloxes, longitudinal one-sided cracking of the stems and exposure of the internal tissues are observed. Cracks 10–15 cm long are formed at the bottom of the stems. These phenomena are observed in moist warm years with abundant nitrogen nutrition and during thickened plantings. The fight against non-communicable diseases is reduced to the elimination of the adverse conditions that caused the disease.
How and when to plant
Many years ago I planted several phlox bushes in my garden. The garden, at that time was young, and sunny places were practically everywhere. Now the plants have grown and phlox were in the shade, and therefore bloom later than in previous years. Therefore, you need to choose a place for landing wisely.
Shadow does not have the best effect on phloxes - they do not always bloom so much as they used to, but they grow and bloom even in the shade.
Plant phlox is better in spring, although it is possible in the fall. Late planted in the fall may not have time to take root and in the winter they are likely to freeze. In addition, before planting, it is necessary to take into account their propensity for certain diseases.
It is important to prepare the ground for phloxes right before planting. If you have sandy soil in the area, then clay and compost should be added to the pit. If the soil is acidic, then it is necessary to make it advance.
If this is not done, add wood ash to the pit. Ash will not only reduce acidity, but also potassium, which is high in ash, will increase plant resistance to diseases. The main condition for the good growth of phlox is fertile, loose soil. Well make a large dose of rich compost.
For landing it is better to choose the evening hours. The soil should be wet. The roots should be well straightened in the planting pit, and covered with a layer of earth of 5-6 cm. Water and slam the ground. You can grind the planted bush.
Transplant and rejuvenation
I sit phlox once every 3-4 years. Early in the spring I cut off a part of a bush with a shovel, and transplant it to a new place or give it to friends and acquaintances for breeding in my area.
Some magazines advise rejuvenating phloxes every 3 years. To do this, you need to dig up the whole bush, shake off the ground, and separate a few pieces from the bush with roots around the center of the bush. Throw away all the middle pieces, and put the separated pieces to new places, plant these delenki at the same depth at which they grew. Phlox bushes age from the center.
When transplanting it is necessary to check the roots of phlox for pests.
The stem nematode is a small and inconspicuous worm that causes great harm. At the base of the bush appear young shoots that already have an ugly look and do not grow. Internodes are greatly shortened, and new leaves appear crouched or stretched out into a thread.
Infected shoots become fragile and dry up gradually. If there are a lot of infected shoots, the whole bush dies.
The pest is distributed with planting material, with thawed and rainwater. Overwinters in the soil on rhizomes and at the base of old stems.
The stem cell nematode control measures are simple - the plant is destroyed by burning in the fire.
Sometimes planting phlox attacks a fungal disease - fomoz. The peel in the lower part of the stems brightens, the leaves begin to dry out, and the shoots become very fragile.
But sometimes the reason for the fragility of the stems is the weather, not the disease. If you see phlox stems lying on the ground, and after a dry May, a rainy June came, do not panic. Just break the fallen stalks, and when the weather is normal, the situation will recover.
Disease and Prevention
For the prevention of diseases on phloxes, copper preparations are recommended, and in old journals there are tips on the use of colloidal sulfur.
Sulfur can be used at air temperatures not lower than + 18 ° C. When spraying sulfur, it is necessary to ensure that the powder does not fall on the flowers, but only on the leaves and shoots.
Planting material purchased on the market or in the store is often the primary source of infections that can affect the plants in your garden. If you buy phlox bushes on the market, there is no certainty that you will not buy plants infected with the variegation virus.
The variegation affects not only phloxes, but many other flowers, such as tulips. It is impossible to cure diseased plants from this virus - they have to be dug out and burned.
The disease manifests itself during flowering. Petals are covered with patterns that are not peculiar to the variety. Almost from the center of the flower emanates chaotic strokes and dashes. On weakened bushes with poor care, the disease develops more strongly.
Verticillary wilting damages the root system of phlox. Stalks wither without yellowing leaves. This disease appears on acidic soils. The best prevention of verticillary wilting is the proper preparation of the soil before planting.
Affected bushes can be treated, but it is better to dig and destroy. New, healthy plants should be planted away from the old place.
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Phloxes, on a par with ageratums, are considered to be quite resistant to disease and pest damage to flowers. Despite this, they also become infected with viral, fungal, and mycoplasmal diseases. With the appearance of viruses and fungi bushes have an underdeveloped appearance. The size and shape of all parts of the affected plants vary greatly.
Signs of mycoplasma diseases are: small size of the stems, chlorosis, modification of plant parts, discoloration of buds. Propagation by parts promotes the intensive spread of viruses and fungi. On phloxes, in addition to diseases, such pests of flowers can attack: nematodes, slugs, caterpillars, cruciferous flea, pennitsa.
Curly (wrinkled) leaves
Leaflets acquire an ugly shape. They clearly visible dead spots of various shapes, with a glossy surface and scabs. Stems are deformed. The diseased plant is lagging behind in development, the buds do not bloom.
When signs of disease appear, the bushes are sprayed with the drug.
The leaves cover the brown spots, the size of which is about 2 mm.
Often we make inspections of colors and we delete the infected copies. We disinfect the soil with Fitosporin. When nematodes, carriers of this virus, are detected in the soil, we treat it with nematocide preparations (Carbofuran, Aldicarb, Fenamifos).
The disease occurs in late spring. On the leaves are visible specks with a ring-shaped pattern. The leaves are strongly deformed, and then twisted. Patients phlox do not bloom.
Prevention and control methods
We carry out regular inspections, we destroy the infected bushes, we disinfect the soil with formalin. Before planting phlox, we check the soil for the presence of nematodes. When they are detected, the soil is etched with Aldicarb, Carbofuran, Fenamifos
Leaves visible spots of different sizes, having a light color. Gradually they become necrotic (die).
Prevention and treatment
The above diseases require the same means of dealing with them. To prevent them, we often perform color inspections and delete infected copies. Before planting flowers in the ground, we check the soil for the presence of nematodes, since they are considered the main carrier of various viruses. When they are found, the earth is treated with nematocides (Carbofuran, Alddicarb, Fenamifos).
Phloxes are subject to fungal diseases such as:
In the first weeks of summer, grayish spots are noticeable below the leaves. They are clearly delineated by the brown border.
We process flowers with the drug Profit.
In the first days of summer brown spots form on the leaves. Sick leaves dry out quickly. Infected plants often die.
Healing and fighting
To destroy septoria and rust use the same means of struggle. Sick stalks burn. Flowers and soil in flower beds are treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture, 0.6% copper chloroxide. For spraying phlox use and 3% iron sulphate.
Description of signs of phlox pests and control
Microscopic worms living in different parts of the plant. They suck the flower juice, disrupting all its physiological processes.
In the place of large accumulations of nematodes on the tissues of phlox swellings are formed. Shoots bend, and the leaves lose their shape. Inflorescences become ugly. The infected plant grows poorly and dies over time.
Patients instances burn. The soil in flowerbeds with phloxes is treated with nematocides 2-3 times in 10 days.
Accumulations of these gastropods on and under the plant, traces of mucus on various parts of phlox. The presence of eaten parts of the flower.
Periodically loosen the soil and remove the weeds. Sprinkle the soil with lime fluff, wood ash.
Cruciferous black flea
Small bugs are found on the plant (1.5-3 mm) that can fly and jump. These pests scrape away the top layer of the lamina, from which it becomes covered with ulcers, which eventually turn into holes. Affected plants often die.
Dust phlox in the morning with lime-fluff or chopped wood ash. Processing carried out 3-4 times.
Phlox Virus Diseases and Control
Phlox viral diseases and their treatment, photos of signs of infection and recommended actions for their detection can be found in this section of our material. Such diseases are not common, but can cause great damage to flower beds and flower beds, as well as apply to many garden and garden crops. The affected plants are not treated, but are destroyed along with the rhizome and the earthy clod.
Necrotic spotting (lat. Necrotic ringspot virus)
Young leaves appear brown spots 1-3 mm in size. With the development of the disease, they can completely cover the surface of the leaf. The cause of the lesion is the cucumber mosaic virus (Latin Cucumber mosaic), which is very often found on other colors: dahlias, gladioli, and delphiniums.
Necrotic spotting of phlox leaves
Wrinkled or curly leaves
As the name suggests, the disease is characterized by leaf modification. The surface of the sheet is covered with spots of black or yellow-green color. The stems are deformed, weakened and the plant itself has a dwarf appearance. The cause is a cucumber mosaic virus or a vein necrosis virus (Latin Phlox necrosis vien virus). Distributed by the Olpidium soil fungus.
Curly leaves phlox
The appearance of whitish stripes on the petals of phlox indicates the occurrence of variegated petals. Accompanied by a slight distortion of the shape of the leaves and a reduction in the period of flowering plants. On varieties with light flowers may go unnoticed. The cause is a Reza mosaic virus (Latin Arabis mosaic virus), which is carried by nematodes.
The variegated phlox appears on leaves and flowers
Prevention of viral phlox diseases
The carrier of most viral diseases are nematodes, so when organizing a flower garden, it is necessary to check the soil for contamination. When detected, the soil should be treated with nematicides - chemicals to destroy nematodes. Chlorpicrim, Nemagon, and Carbation are most commonly used. Infection can spread through garden tools, fallen buds and petals of an infected flower. Cuttings of a diseased plant can also be a source of illness.
Finding viral phlox disease - dig and burn the plant
It is important to periodically inspect plantings, identifying signs of viral infections, and remove and burn affected plants. Pits from the excavated plants are pickled with nematocides and covered with fresh earth.
When replenishing a collection of flowers with new seedlings, it is useful to first plant them in a quarantine area to detect phlox disease - a photo of the signs of infection will help to correctly identify the disease. Such a measure can protect the rest of the landing from infection.
Leaf Rust (Latin Cronartium ribicola)
In June, rusty spots appear on the leaves of plants, the size of which is constantly increasing. The leaves gradually die off, and the plant looks depressed and weakened. Most often affected varieties with a dark (burgundy, purple) color of buds.
Phlox disease and treatment - rust photo
Affected leaves, and with significant damage and completely plants - weed out and burned. The soil around is treated with a mixture of one-percent Bordeaux mixture, with the addition of copper oxychloride (0.7%) and iron sulphate (3%). For the prevention process and the surrounding plants.
Septoria infection or leaf spotting (lat. Septoria phlogis Sac)
At the beginning of summer, gray spots may appear on the phlox leaflets - these are the first signs of Septoria. Then they increase in size, turn yellow and a reddish border forms around them. If the area of infection is significant, then the sheet dies.
Fungal diseases of phlox - leaf spot
For treatment, the same remedies are used as with rust.
Mealy dew (lat. Lat. Erysiphaceae)
At the end of the summer on many plants you can find whitish spots that gradually increase in size and merge with each other. Leaves dry out and die. Mealy dew infects flowers in dense plantings, in conditions of high humidity.
This disease often affects plants growing in thick planting conditions. Contamination contributes to a surplus of nitrogen in the soil. For the treatment of phloxes, you can use a solution of soda ash (1%), which should be sprayed plants three times with an interval of one week.
Phlox perennial disease: powdery mildew treatment
A good means of struggle is foliar feeding with boric acid. Half a teaspoon of acid should be dissolved in hot water. Then the mixture is diluted with watering 10 liters of water.
Phomosis (lat. Phoma betae)
Фомозом могут быть поражены только взрослые флоксы, болезни признаки проявляются в пожелтении и скручивании нижних листьев. Стебель у корня темнеет и покрывается трещинами, становится хрупким и легко обламывается.
Фомоз - проявление болезни флоксов в картинках
Хорошо помогает опрыскивание бордосской жидкостью в течение месяца с интервалом в 10 дней. Осенью пораженные растения следует обрезать у самой земли и уничтожить.
Нематоды (лат. Phyllotreta cruciferae)
Nematodes are hair parasitic worms that live in the tissues of the stem part of a plant. Their larvae may be in the soil, weeds, stems. In affected phlox, the edges of the leaves become wavy, the stems become bent, and the inflorescences have a distorted shape. Nematodes winter in the rhizome and basal part of the stem, withstanding frost and drought. They are distributed to other plants through tools, as well as during the reproduction of phlox by cuttings, transferred by moles and mice.
Phlox affected by stem nematode
Sick bushes should be removed along with an earthy ball. If the plant is not completely damaged and is a valuable specimen, you can remove infected leaves from it and leave to hibernate. The following year, the whole shoots should be cut off, washed with water, rooted under the film cover, and the parent bush should be dug out and destroyed. Phloxes grown in this way from cuttings are planted in the quarantine area and observed.
Dropping pennitsa (lat. Philaenus spumarius Larve)
The larvae of the slobbery pennitsa secrete a sticky substance, in appearance resembling saliva. In this environment, the larvae of the tinker pest develop in the leaf axils. They feed on the juices of the plant, because of which the leaves fold and shrink.
Signs of bib on phlox leaves
With a small lesion, you can remove infected leaves from the plant. In the event of a global invasion of the pennitsa, treatment is carried out with the preparations: Fufanon, Intra-vir.
Slugs (lat. Limax maximus)
Slugs harm plants by eating stems and leaves. Buds and flowers are also affected. During the day, slugs find shelter under stones and slabs, and in the evening they crawl on plants.
Slugs spread diseases and damage plants.
Loosening the soil under the plants, dusting the soil with ashes and tobacco dust help in the complex to prevent the invasion of slugs. You can use bait with metaldehyde or sprinkle this drug at the rate of 30 grams per 10 square meters. m landings.
From folk remedies, we can recommend ammonia, diluted at the rate of 2 tbsp. spoons to 1 liter of water. Spray the plants with the onset of the evening.
Caterpillars scoops (lat. Noctuidae) and cabbage (lat. Pieris brassicae)
Green caterpillars devour young leaves and stems, damaging the appearance and health of the plant. Picking parasites by hand is the easiest and most effective way to fight. With a massive lesion helps spray plants with chemical compounds against leaf-eating insects.
Caterpillar scoops on phlox leaves
Physiological disorders in the cultivation of phlox
It is important to know growing phlox, pests and diseases - not the only problem you may encounter. Improper soil composition, agrotechnical violations, and cultivation rules lead to damage to the plants, which may cause their death or disease. In some cases, they may be similar to fungal and viral infections.
Often the growth of the stems is accompanied by their longitudinal cracking. Damage is then covered with growths (callus), and the stem becomes brittle, becomes thinner and often breaks off under the weight of the foliage. Cracking may occur due to the lack of watering in hot and dry summers.
Cracking Phlox Stems
To avoid problems, avoid thickening of the plantings and an excess of nitrogen in the soil. In dry weather, watering should be done in the evenings, after the heat subsides. For high types of phloxes, provide supports or enclosures.
Preserving the health of flowers is not difficult if you monitor their condition and provide them with the right care. Inspect plants periodically - it is much easier to prevent phlox diseases, and their treatment will not be a problem if you notice them at the initial stage.
Do not plant flowers too thickly, as it will be difficult to air the plantings. In addition, dense thickets contribute to the rapid spread of infections and pests, and make it difficult to carry out a routine inspection.
Funds from the kitchen
The main attack, which annually spoils the mood for lovers of phlox - powdery mildew. The fight against this fungal disease (mycosis) is reduced to the suppression of pathogens - fungi. A good result is the use of whey, which is diluted 1:10 and then the bushes are treated with this solution at least 3 times in 3 days in dry weather.
You can use skimmed milk. In a liter jar pour 100 ml of milk, top up the jar to the top with water and add 1-2 drops of iodine. For powdery mildew, plant treatment with a soap solution of soda ash is widely used. For its preparation take 2 tbsp. spoons of soda (50 g) per 10 liters of water, in which grated laundry soap or 1 tbsp is already diluted spoon of dishwashing liquid. It is necessary to start treatment as soon as you find signs of the disease. It will take several approaches with an interval of 7-10 days.
The first signs of the disease.Photo author
If you dissolve 100 g of mustard powder in 10 l of warm water, you will get another excellent tool. This solution requires not only to thoroughly treat the plants, but also to shed the ground around it to suppress the pathogen. Reliable and often used in the garden potassium permanganate, diluted in a proportion of 5 g per 10 liters of water, also works well against powdery mildew. The solution should be maroon.
From the powder from powdery mildew, nettle infusion helps well: 200 g of pharmaceutical raw materials or 500 g of fresh grass are poured with 5 liters of boiling water and left for a day, then filtered and sprayed with phloxes. It is also easy to prepare a solution of bitter wormwood, soaking 1 kg of grass in 1 liter of water. The resulting concentrate is diluted three times and watered the ground under phlox.
From powdery mildew nettle helps well
Ash solution helps against diseases (1 kg of powder per 10 liters of water). It is used after infusing for a week, adding 20 g of soap. Use strictly every other day.
Before flowering phlox can be processed infusion of mullein. It is prepared as follows: the bucket is filled to one-third with a mullein, poured with water to the top. Then insist 3 days, filter and dilute the resulting concentrate with 3 more parts of water. Do not forget, this tool is treated only before flowering!
Some plants can be used to fight thrips and nematodes, which often infect phlox plants. In the first place here marigoldthat serve as bait for nematodes, and plant trap. Nematodes, these microscopic worms, colonize the stems, so tagetes that are uprooted must be burned and in no case sent to the compost pit.
In the role of a trap plant, white mustard is good.Photo author
Excellent pest antagonists - calendula and pyrethrum, not to mention garlic. Checked that sown among phlox dill significantly improves planting and prevents the spread of nematodes. In addition, the role of trapping plants are white mustard and parsley, which, together with other umbrella should be sown between plantings phlox. Proved that rape also a tasty bait for nematodes. He is sown three times, each time on the fifth sheet pulled out and sent to the fire.
A wonderful pest antagonist is calendula.Photo author
It should be noted that the phlox, sometimes, there is cracking of stems and drying of the leaves in the lower part of the shoots. This is not a disease, but a manifestation of the biological characteristics of a culture, caused by improper temperature, water and light regimes.
Drying phlox leaves.Photo author
This problem occurs when watering with cold water in hot weather, lack of moisture in the dry season, an excess of nitrogen. The matter is reparable, you just need to follow the instructions for watering and feeding, and the next year the phlox will be in perfect order.