Calla is an elegant and beautiful plant, which is deservedly popular with florists, gardeners and lovers of indoor plants. A variety of colors and an unusual funnel-shaped form of flowers, unpretentious care, long flowering make callus, regardless of the variety, the favorite of many florist. But if the plant does not bloom, it is alarming and doubtful, as well as a desire to find ways to achieve buds.
The reasons why the plant does not give color
Hailing from the African rainforest, calla feels particularly good in the southern latitudes of the country, where with good care it can bloom almost all year round. It is possible to achieve such an excellent result by understanding the reasons for the lack of color and observing a set of rules.
Before taking any action to make the plant bloom, it is worth understanding the factors that can interfere with calla.
Among the main reasons for the lack of color include:
- Insufficient watering
- Small pot for a plant
- Weak or small tubers
- Incorrect ground composition or depleted ground
Most often, the grower knows the conditions in which he grows calla and can guess what exactly prevents the plant from blooming. Having understood this, you can try to correct the situation.
How to help the plant to bloom
There are several basic recommendations, the implementation of which will help to get a calla bud. First of all, you need room for tubers, regardless of whether the calla is planted in open ground or in a room pot. The tightness and appearance of babies hinders the normal development of tubers, which negatively affects flowering. When transplanting, it is necessary to carefully separate the processes of the bulbs from the mother bush and replace them in a separate pot. Each tuber must have at least one bud. It is also recommended to remove excess leaves.
To achieve abundant and long-term flowering, regardless of the variety of calla lilies, it is necessary to periodically feed. If the plant is transplanted into open soil for the summer, it will be enough to feed the calla once a month with any organic fertilizer, but during the flowering period it is better to add mineral fertilizers, urea and infusion on an egg-shell. Homemade callas require constant feeding with complex fertilizers at least once every two weeks.
Excessive abundance of nitrogen fertilizers leads to increased leaf growth, which negatively affects flowering. With the appearance of peduncles and during the entire flowering period, it is necessary to give the plant phosphorus-containing and potash fertilizers.
Kalla is a plant that periodically needs rest. In winter, it needs to stop watering and let the leaves dry out on their own. Tubers in the ground are recommended to be sprinkled with sawdust and kept in a dark, cool place and extremely rare and water only a little to avoid undesired drying. During this period, the calla bulbs gain strength.
The minimum period of rest is one and a half to two months.
From the middle of spring, you can start abundant watering, and in the summer to bring to light or plant in open ground, which has a great effect on strengthening the tubers and further leads to long-term flowering. If this is not possible, you can set the calla pot to fresh air, a loggia or a balcony. At the same time, the plant should be protected from excessively scorching sunlight.
Kalle needs abundant watering. The best will be soft settled warm water. Drying the soil will postpone the flowering of callas until six months. Ideally, calle needs a pan of water. Thus it is necessary to ensure that the water in the pan does not stagnate. This will have a bad effect on the root system of calla. With irregular irrigation, this plant may stop growing altogether. This is especially true of white calla lilies. This species in nature grows on marshy or very wet soils. Colored callas are not so demanding for watering.
Optimal conditions for the growth and flowering of callas
Calla loves heat and moisture. It will feel especially comfortable when the air humidity is from 70 to 80%. That is why it is recommended to spray the plant or wipe the leaves with a damp sponge. To reduce the intensity of watering can be after flowering.
Calla is best suited for low acid soil. The ideal combination would be a mixture of sand, earth and peat in equal proportions with the addition of humus. If this is not possible, you can water the calla in a universal soil with a weak solution of table vinegar at the rate of 10 ml per five-liter water capacity. This method can oxidize the soil for other plants.
Calla is very sensitive to sudden changes in air temperature. Such drops are destructive for the vegetative system of culture. The most optimal temperature for flowering calla from 18 to 24 C. During the rest period, it is recommended to lower the temperature to 10 C, but this should be done gradually. Only small daily temperature fluctuations have a positive effect on calla.
By putting together all the rules and approaches to the plant, as well as trying to bring them to life, the gardener can achieve a good and stable flowering of callas. In this case, the person will receive pleasure, both from the result and from the process of leaving.
The effect of planting and transplanting a plant on its flowering
Only well-developed and healthy tubers are able to form a peduncle, and for this they need space. It is important to choose a suitable pot for Kalle, which will have enough space for the development of the root system.
For a young bush enough capacity up to 1 l. Adult flowers should choose a pot, guided by such requirements:
- the height of the pot should be twice the length of the roots,
- The diameter of the pot should be a couple of centimeters larger than the size of the crown of the bush.
When planting, you must first deepen the tubers in the soil to half. Dust the ground after the flower begins to release new leaves.
In addition, over time, the calla grows and many children appear in the pot. The plant becomes crowded, and there is no time for flowering. It is important to replant adult specimens regularly, separating children (at least once every two years).
Watering and feeding
Since the calla comes from the tropics, it needs regular watering and high humidity. If the earth often dries up due to missed watering, it will not only delay the onset of flowering for up to 6 months, but will negatively affect the development of the flower and it will stop growing.
During the growing season it is necessary to water the calla every other day, and also spray the leaves or wipe them.
Equally important are balanced feedings. With excess nitrogen bush spends all the forces on the formation of deciduous mass. To stimulate flowering, it is necessary to use drugs with a predominance of phosphorus and potassium.
How much calla should rest?
In order for the plant to bloom next season, it needs a dormant period during which the tubers gain strength. In the fall, the pot should be moved to a cooler room and gradually reduce watering to a minimum, occasionally moistening the soil so that it does not dry out completely.
It is interesting that the calla varieties with colored buds completely shed their foliage during the rest period, but the white callae did not.
“Vacation” calla should last from 2 to 3 months. With the onset of spring, the pot should be returned to the bright window-sill and renewed abundant watering.
Callas are very fond of light. Therefore, they should be planted in a brightly lit place where there is access to direct sunlight.
Callas need constantly moistened soil, so they should be watered often and plentifully, they need about 1-2 buckets of water per plant per week. At the same time to prevent stagnation of water in the roots can not. That is why it is recommended to plant callas close to water bodies in order to provide the roots with constant access to moisture.
Secrets of success
- It is recommended to buy callas that are already adapted for growing in our climate. This will prevent problems such as tuber rot or dry out. In addition, your plant will bloom in the first year of cultivation.
- Do not cut the tubers with a knife, and grease the damaged areas with brilliant green.
- It is very important to plant the tuber correctly. At the top it has sockets from which the leaves will develop, and below it the beginnings of roots. Of course, it is necessary to plant a tuber roots down. At the same time it is impossible to plant the tuber deep, otherwise it will simply rot.
- Watering the tubers immediately after planting can not be done gradually. However, it is also not allowed to overdry the soil. Water preferably with warm water.
- When fertilizing a plant, remember that an excessive amount of nitrogen leads to the fact that the plant develops greens, but on the flowering it affects very negatively.
Diseases and pests
Often callas prone to fungal diseases, but the vast majority of them are treatable. Therefore, properly caring for a sick plant, you will not lose it.
- - Rhizoctonia. This is a fungus that affects the shoots of plants that are above the ground. In such a case, spots appear on the plant. In this case, a clean soil is needed, which periodically needs to be treated with a fungicide.
- - Botrytis. A fungus that infects the leaves — spots appear on them. This disease does not cause any harm, except for a spoiled appearance. For the prevention of calla can be sprayed with a solution of fungicide.
- - Pythium. This fungus causes root rot. After infection, the plant ceases to absorb moisture from the soil, which can cause the death of the plant. Will help solution fungicide and moderate watering.
- - Pencellosis. a fungus that infects the tubers of a plant. This happens because of an overabundance of moisture, and the fungus can affect not only the external part of the tuber, but also the internal. For prevention, tubers should be stored in a well-ventilated area.
- Except listed fungal diseases, callas can be susceptible to diseases that are caused by bacteria, viruses or insects.
- - Mosaic. This disease is caused by potato X-virus. Indicators of the presence of this disease are white spots of different sizes on the leaves. Over time, these spots become strips, and the leaves begin to curl. In general, there is a slowdown in calla growth and lack of flowering. In this case, the plant must be treated with a fungicide.
- - Ervinia. It is a bacterium that affects both the stems and leaves of the plant. They acquire a dark color, and subsequently rot appears on them. After that the leaves fall, and the tubers begin to rot. In order to reduce the risk of developing this disease, you need to plant only healthy tubers in clean soil, and not to use a large amount of nitrogenous fertilizers.
Calla flowers often affected by aphids and thrips. They contribute to the appearance of spots and stripes on flowers. In addition, these insects are often carriers of various diseases. For prevention, we often need to weed flowers and, when insects are found, treat the plant with insecticides.
Why doesn't calla bloom?
Absence of flowering in calla can be observed for various reasons. If the flower is purchased in a flower shop, and refuses to bloom at home, then perhaps it is at a resting stage. The plant just needs time to rest, after which it will actively bloom.
If the calla, which is grown at home, refuses to blossom, this can happen for the following reasons:
- Soil saturation with nitrogenous fertilizers. To remedy the situation, it is necessary to abandon the fertilizers, in the composition of which nitrogen is present, and strengthen the additional fertilizing with compounds containing phosphorus and potassium.
- Lack of light. Kalla needs bright light, especially in winter. If the flower pot is in the penumbra, then the plant will start to wither, its leaves will become faded, it will not bloom. Rearranging the pot on the window sill, illuminated by bright light, it is possible to stimulate the process of active flowering. If there is little light in the apartment, the flower is recommended to organize artificial lighting.
- Incorrect transplant. The flower is under stress when it is transplanted, so frequent replanting calla is undesirable. The wrong transplanting process often becomes a blooming provoker. The plant can not be deeply placed in the soil, it provokes the lack of flowering. Also, it is impossible to plant calla on the surface of the ground, since this will enhance the process of the formation of children who “take” all the forces from the plant, and it, in turn, ceases to bloom.
- The youth of the plant. Only adult calla (over 2 years old) can bloom. If the flower is young (under 2 years old), then the lack of flowering is a natural factor.
How to make the calla blossom?
Calla is an elegant flower that has lush bright foliage. With proper care, the plant begins to actively produce buds, which soon turn into surprisingly delicate flowers. Many flower growers grow calla because of the rich foliage, because it becomes an interior decoration and is able to create comfort in any apartment. But, undoubtedly, besides bright juicy leaves, flower growers want to enjoy the flowering of their favorite plant.
The above is described why the calla does not bloom at home. And now we will indicate how to stimulate calla flowering.
Provide proper watering
The plant needs regular watering, it refers to the flowers that always need moisture. Experienced flower growers are advised to water the flower every day or every other day, it is important to ensure that the water in the pan of the pot is constant. The lack of sufficient moisture in the soil can cause the lack of flowering. It is important to know if the soil in the pot dries at least once, then the period of active flowering will be delayed for at least six months.
Water for irrigation must be soft. This can be achieved by ordinary settling of the liquid. You can not water the flower with cold water, it will also cause the lack of flowering.
In addition to the above, the plant needs to be sprayed daily with warm, settled water.
To plant a flower in a spacious pot
In nature, the plant is actively developing, if the callah is transferred to the house, then its root system will experience real stress. If the flower is purchased in a flower shop, then it is required to plant it immediately in a wide and deep pot. Calla grows rapidly, its root system becomes massive. It is impossible that the roots in the flowerpot were cramped, this can cause the development of the disease.
- the height of the pot should be 2 times the length of the root system,
- the width of the flowerpot is 5 cm wider than the crown of an adult flower.
Constantly appearing children begin to "crowd out" the plant, because of this, it refuses to bloom. To kids do not interfere with flowering, you must regularly remove them. If there is no desire to often share a flower, then it is necessary to transplant the main plant together with the children into an even wider pot.
Provide calla rest
The nature of calla is designed so that it needs regular rest. The flower can not bloom all year round, moreover, during the period of rest it is not able to saturate the foliage with nutrients. The pattern is, if during dormant the green dies off, and the root system is strengthened.
Rules of the organization of "rest":
- during the rest period the plant reduce watering,
- it is advisable to put a flower pot in a cool room,
- the "rest" period is about 3 months,
- as soon as the calla “wakes up”, return the flower to a bright place and ensure proper care (regular watering, fertilizing, etc.).
After the calla has a rest, and its root system gains strength, it will begin to overgrow with lush bright green foliage and very soon release buds with flowers.
A rest period is organized by the calla through the year in the winter. A fully rested and matured flower will please flower growers with abundant blooms all winter, but next year.
Why does not calla bloom? Perhaps the plant simply does not have enough strength to complete the flowering process. As a rule, if a flower has weak roots, then it does not bloom. To release the buds and subsequently the flowers, the plant needs a lot of strength, which it receives from the root system. If the roots lack nutrients, they are not capable of providing useful components and a structural part.
To maintain the plant, as well as to stimulate the flowering process will help regular feeding phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Varieties of indoor callas
The most common types of callas for indoor growing today are:
- Rhizomatous white callas (varieties of callas Ethiopian),
- Color callas (Eliot and Remani calluses).
Callas can be grown not only at home, but also in the garden. The following varieties are suitable for this:
- Ethiopian (rhizomatous): “Pearl”, “Green Goddess”, “Nicolai”,
- Calla Eliotta: Vermeer, Black-Eyed Beauty, Yellow Corner,
- Calla Remani: "Indian Summer", "Chameleon", "Evening".
Planting white callas
- Для белых калл горшок должен быть широким до 20 см, но неглубоким,
- На дно укладывается дренажный слой (керамзит, галька и др.) в 5 см,
- Засыпается почва со слабокислой средой, например, грунт для ароидных культур. Можно приготовить почвосмесь самостоятельно из перегноя, песка, дерновой и листовой земли (1:1:1:2), четвертой части глины и суперфосфата,
- Rhizomes are planted to a depth of 3 times the diameter,
- After three weeks, begin watering and feeding.
Planting a tuberous callas
- In March, the nodules should be put in a bright and warm place, occasionally moistening them,
- Each is planted in a 3 liter tank with drainage at the bottom,
- Soil mixture is the same, but clay is eliminated, and the sand content should be reduced,
- Tubers are placed on a sandy layer and powdered with 1-2 cm of soil,
- After a couple of weeks, you can water and fertilize.
- Tuberous callas at home with proper care, can bloom once a year for 5-8 years.
How to care for calla lilies
Indoor calla flower and care need attention. They must go through a rest period of 3-6 months. It usually begins in October-November and ends in February-March.
The dormant period is very difficult to choose, due to the fact that many callas purchased are grown by stimulants and do not rest for the first year. But then the mode itself is restored.
Varies from 80% for whites, and up to 50% for color ones. To maintain humidity, pots are usually placed on a pallet with wet pebbles, expanded clay, or moss, while white callas are additionally sprayed and wiped, but color ones are not.
Watering of white callas is carried out as the soil dries out for 1 cm, and in 10–20 minutes the remnants are drained from the pallet to avoid moisture stagnation.
Colored callas are watered moderately around the edge of the pot when the soil dries out for 3-4 cm.
After the plants bloom, water less frequently; for colored callas, 1-2 months after that, watering should be stopped.
The temperature should be 18-20 degrees. After a flowering period, tuberous callas are placed for a month in conditions of 25-27 degrees without watering. Then ripened tubers are cut from the leaves and stored at a temperature of 3-5 degrees until the end of winter-early spring.
For storage it is best to use sawdust or paper bags, airing regularly.
Feeding should be carried out necessarily. Fertilizers need to be made once every two weeks. If the summer is warm enough, you can land the calla lilies in open ground.
After resting, it is better to transplant the plants to a new soil. Colored callas are planted in the form of tubers, and white - by dividing the bush.
- Signs: dirty gray on the foliage and green-gray on the bedspread.
- The reasons: Infection through untreated soil or parts of diseased callas. Develops with excessive waterlogging.
- Prevention: Rare planting, ventilation, disinfection of the soil and tubers with the help of potassium permanganate solution.
- Wrestling: fungicides Rovral, Fundazol, Vitaros.
- Signs: Brown spots on foliage that grow over time. Leaves dry, crack, etc.
- The reasons: Waterlogging, excessive heat and infection from affected parts.
- Prevention: Compliance with humidity and temperature.
- Wrestling: Affected leaves should be removed, and the above preparations should be used.
Root rot (late blight)
- Signs: Leaves and peduncles gradually fade. The roots are covered with rot.
- The reasons: Waterlogging of the soil, elevated temperatures, excess of nitrogenous fertilizers.
- Prevention: Use drainage, proper watering, disinfection of the soil and tubers.
- Wrestling: Fungicides: Previkur, Profit Gold, Ridomil.
- Signs: The root and parts of the shoot begin to darken and then rot. The plant gradually begins to turn yellow and fester.
- The reasons: Mechanical damage on plants, waterlogging of the substrate, high temperatures and excess fertilizer with nitrogen.
- Prevention: compliance with the conditions of agricultural engineering, soil and tubers disinfection.
- Wrestling: Fungicides cited above.
Why do the leaves of calla room turn yellow?
The reasons for the yellowing of the leaves can be several:
- Period of rest. In this case, it is necessary to provide conditions for the rest of the flower,
- Lack of moisture to avoid this, you need to spray the calla from the spray,
- Excess moisture also leads to yellowing of the foliage, so you need to follow the irrigation mode and install a drainage layer,
- Too high temperature, put callas away from heating devices,
- Sunshine too bright
- Cold watering
- Lack of dressings.
All diseases of callas and yellowing of leaves, including, are associated with improper agricultural techniques.
Calla diseases caused by improper conditions
Calla – An unpretentious plant, however, like any living thing, requires proper care. Under the wrong conditions, African beauty may not bloom, acquire a painful, dull appearance with twisted leaves, or disappear altogether. Timely corrected errors in the supervision of the flower necessarily help, and you can enjoy its beauty.
Calla does not bloom
The lack of flowering calla is one of the most common and distressing consequences of improper care of the plant. The reasons why the calla does not bloom may be several:
- insufficient watering
- cramped pot
- no rest period
- improper fertilizer or lack of it.
The plant is in great need of space. A narrow little pot will lead to the fact that the pet will not be able to bloom. The height of the container must be such that the root does not occupy more than half of it, and in diameter it must be slightly larger than the crown of the leaves. When the children appear, they must be removed.Kalle needs a rest period. This is usually the winter period. At this time, the leaves begin to dry. The pot with the plant must be moved to a cool place and occasionally watered so that the flower does not dry out. This period is necessary for the root system to gain strength. If the flower does not arrange such a holiday, it will not bloom. In early spring, the calla can be re-placed on the windowsill and resume regular watering.
Fragility of leaf stalks
Yellowing of the leaves and fragility of leaf stalks often occur due to improper care. The fragility of the petioles is caused by a lack of nutrients in the soil. With a lack of nitrogen and potassium leaves become pale and fall down.Trouble can also occur due to improper irrigation: excessive amount or lack of moisture. Leaf petioles will be brittle and in cases where the plant is placed under the direct rays of the sun.
Strongly stretched stems
Calla does not like the abundance of light. However, when it is insufficient, the stalks of the plant will be strongly drawn out and become brittle. This also happens at very high temperatures in the room where the flower grows.
The plant must be identified in a slightly shaded place, however, so that there is no lack of sunlight. Especially it is necessary to avoid direct hit of the sun on a flower. It is not recommended to put the calla on the window sill, close to the battery. This will lead to overheating of the flower, strongly elongated and brittle stems.
Infectious diseases calla, methods of dealing with themAs a result of improper care or poor quality planting material, poor soil calla is exposed to infectious diseases. They quickly make themselves known: the plant's color fades, the calla leaves curl or turn yellow, dry out, the stems become brittle. To avoid the death of the plant, it is necessary to calculate the cause of this state and take the necessary measures in time.
Anthracnose is a fungal disease of calla. Such a disease among these beauties is quite common.
Calla anthracnose has the following manifestations:
- hollow brown spots appear on the leaves,
- over time, the stains become larger in size, a red edging appears on their edges, and a white mold in the center,
- leaves crack and dry out
- the stems weaken
- the flowers grow dull and curl.
- high air temperature
- excessive air humidity and soil.
- remove damaged leaves from plants and soil,
- reduce watering
- move the plant away from the batteries,
- treatment with fungicides ("Fundazol", "Fitosporin-M").
Mealy dewMealy dew develops due to the destruction of calla by fungi. With such a disease, white bloom appears on the leaves of the plant, which very quickly increases in volume and over time covers all the leaves of the flower. Externally, the plaque is similar to grains of flour, which abundantly cover the surface of calla. Over time, the affected parts turn black and disappear.
- removal of damaged leaves (if they are not very many),
- fungicide treatment
- temper watering.
Spider miteMites feed on the top layer of plant leaves. With the defeat of the calla with a spider mite, its leaves turn gray, between them you can see a thin spider web. On the bottom of the leaves, small black spots are formed. Buds often do not bloom, dry out and disappear.
Causes of spider mite:
- very dry air
- insufficient watering.
- air humidification
- putting in a cooler place
- wiping the leaves with a solution of soap or "Neoron", "Fufan".
They feed on plant sap. With the defeat of the calla by this pest, the leaves turn pale and dry, curl, white spots can also appear on them. To get rid of pests, you need to moisten the air, cut off the affected leaves and treat the plant with insecticides.
Aphids are small insects (black, green, white or gray) that feed on plant sap. They poison the callah with waste products. Usually pests are located on the lower parts of the leaves. Clear signs of the defeat of aphids are yellowing of foliage, fast wilting of flowers. Existing buds do not bloom, and dry out. Over time, the top of the leaves is covered with a sticky coating.
- temporarily stop fertilizing with nitrogen
- process the plant with potash oil (20 grams per liter of boiled warm water) or special preparations ("Decis", "Aktara").